St James's, Chinese Restaurant Guide

Flamboyant décor and regular live entertainment aim to recreate the decadence of 1930s Shanghai at this showy Mayfair mandarin. As in previous years, it takes some flak for its pricing, but ratings for its luxurious cuisine (which includes Scottish Rib-Eye and imported Wagyu steaks, alongside Peking Duck, dim sum and more evidently Chinese dishes) were consistently good this year.

“Some of the best Chinese cooking in London” is delivered at this West End three-year-old: the first London branch of a Singapore-based group with offshoots across mainland China. But even if the dishes are “divine”, “you pay a serious premium” to dine here. And the atmosphere of this “beautiful” former banking hall, with “very smart” décor by the late Christian Laigre, “can end up either too manic or funereal, with little in between”. Top Menu Tip – the Peking duck is as “exceptional” as its price tag.

“Fantastic, modern Chinese food” has long driven this famous Asian phenomenon. Launched in 2001, it has gone from a big, “overly dark” and nightclubby basement (“horribly loud music”) near Tottenham Court Road to spawn a very glam Mayfair offshoot; as well as 12 international spin-offs from NYC to Mumbai. “Eye-watering prices” and a mixed record when it comes to service, have always inspired jibes of “style over substance” here. But perhaps due to post-Covid challenges, such problems are in the foreground this year. Given that there have been blips before, they will probably get a grip. But it’s hard at present to ignore the many former fans saying “these ageing stalwarts need a refresh” (“I used to love it, but I think the bill now is silly and unjustified and the service is half-hearted and surly”).

Near the gateway leading into Chinatown, this undistinguished looking Chinese venue is one of the better bets in the area: the food is “always tip top” and “less clichéd” than often is the case nearby. Seafood is tipped as is the “excellent dim sum”.

“The roast duck is extraordinarily delicious and just melts in the mouth” (and the rest of the menu is worthy of exploration too) at these “squashed in” Cantonese pit stops in Bayswater and Chinatown, which waste little energy on interior design or customer service. (A new branch ‘Chop Chop’, is set to open in the basement of the Hippodrome casino, near Leicester Square, over summer 2022).

“Tasty mountains of food” served with “no frills” make this Cantonese landmark one of London’s most enduring low-budget eats. “Yes, it’s basic” and the “super-quick” service “no longer has the ‘rudeness’ of the 1990s” that had its own masochistic entertainment value. But many reporters note that “they are still visiting after decades, so something works”: “it’s great cheap food”. “The ambience is tired with token Chinese decoration … wouldn’t have it any other way!”

“Top dim sum” – “always well cooked and presented” – is the prime draw to this Gerrard Street Cantonese stalwart, which also benefits from an outdoor terrace.

“A Chinese pub” – in Berwick Street, Soho – “that works!”. This contemporary ‘concept’ successfully combines enjoyable food (including house Cantonese roast duck) with an “interesting drinks list” and characterful interior. Launched in 2015, by Alan Yau of Wagamama, Hakkasan, Yauatcha and Busaba Eathai fame, it’s never caught fire in quite the same way as his other operations.

“Exquisite” dim sum – in particular “addictive cheung fun and venison puffs” – have won fame for these Hakkasan spin-offs, which are quite different in nature. The original site occupies a “blingy, dark, rammed-full Soho basement” (and you can also eat in the ground-floor tea room); while the Broadgate spin-off is vast by comparison and much more swish and corporate, with large outside terraces for cocktails. Both outlets share the shortcomings of Hakkasan, though: they can be “soooooo pricey”, and service can be “slow” or “entitled”. Top Tip – their “cakes are incredible; small and perfectly formed!”

“The roast duck is extraordinarily delicious and just melts in the mouth” (and the rest of the menu is worthy of exploration too) at these “squashed in” Cantonese pit stops in Bayswater and Chinatown, which waste little energy on interior design or customer service. (A new branch ‘Chop Chop’, is set to open in the basement of the Hippodrome casino, near Leicester Square, over summer 2022).

“The roast duck is extraordinarily delicious and just melts in the mouth” (and the rest of the menu is worthy of exploration too) at these “squashed in” Cantonese pit stops in Bayswater and Chinatown, which waste little energy on interior design or customer service. (A new branch ‘Chop Chop’, is set to open in the basement of the Hippodrome casino, near Leicester Square, over summer 2022).

This “boisterous” stalwart is a prime choice on Chinatown’s main drag – “the dim sum especially is a cut above all its rivals, but all the dishes are just done better here”.

“Higher quality than the run-of-the-mill Chinatown stalwarts” – this big, “reliable” three-storey Cantonese (est. 1993) benefits from a cute, tucked-away location in a small courtyard, complete with fish pond, just north of Leicester Square.

“Top egg yolk buns” are a big draw at China-born architect Z He and chef Alex Peffly’s well-known Chinatown pit stop, which provides an “excellent bustling ambience and wonderful heart-filling food”.

“Absolutely delicious” Indo-Chinese dishes (inspired by the Hakka-influenced cuisine of Kolkata) makes it worth discovering these slightly offbeat eateries in Soho and Covent Garden: (“delectable chops, and it even converted me to liking okra!”).

This “amazing Sichuan specialist” stands out from the competition with a “really interesting selection” of super-spicy options that are “a long, long way above and beyond the usual Chinatown fare”. “The recently revamped menu is now even better than before” – “not the greatest ambience but my goodness the food is good” (“took a gourmet friend who declared that six of the seven dishes were exceptional… the seventh was just delicious!”). Top Tip – “if you have a dry wok dish and don’t finish it, get a doggy bag”.

“Tucked away in a lovely Mayfair conversion”, Samyukta Nair’s (who studied in China) year-old Shanghai-inspired venture has suffered some tough press reviews (notably from Giles Coren in The Times) but generally pleases diners. OK, even many fans concede that it is “super-expensive”, but “apart from the bill, everything else is amazing”, including the superior dim sum (from an ex-Hakkasan, Chinese-Singaporean chef, Peter Ho) and “fabled Peking duck” (which you must pre-order).

In the late 1990s, Jonathan Meades in the Times regularly hailed the Harbour City – a previous Cantonese occupant of this site on Chinatown’s main drag – as London’s top choice for dim sum. Now this latest incumbent is receiving similar treatment on the back of an Eater article hailing it as “the trendiest restaurant in central London”. According to The Observer’s Jay Rayner, the new “very different” offering is “the grand, jumpy, thrilling, chilli and numbing peppercorn hullabaloo that those of us addicted to the Sichuan repertoire just adore”.