London City Restaurant Guide

“So many amazing, creative options for brunch” together with “renowned coffee” (“meticulously sourced and roasted in-house”) have made these “loud”, “brash”, “buzzy” and “quite hip” haunts – particularly the well-known Granary Square branch – key destinations, particularly at the weekend. When busy, however, service can be “hit and miss”; and the food has sometimes been a let-down of late: “it feels like random, trendy ingredients are thrown into dishes so they can charge more for them, rather than for culinary interest or flavour”.

“On a warm summer’s day, the roof garden is a secluded and delightful place to escape the pressure of the Square Mile”, say fans of D&D London’s long-established, 7th-floor perch, just a stone’s throw from Bank. Squarely aimed at a “very City clientele”, it’s a “swanky expense-accounter venue, whose starched napery will not disappoint your visiting client from NYC”; and where a meal can be started with preprandial drinks on the terrace. Fans feel it offers “high quality, well-prepared” French cuisine – the more downbeat version is that it’s “pricey for what it provides”: either way, you get “a great view!”

“It feels as if one has been decanted into the 1920s but I never fail to enjoy my visits!” – “This unique City institution has a charm and authenticity that can’t be imitated” – a “joyous throwback” (founded, on a different site, in 1830) which offers “simple, well-executed British seafood classics” (followed by steamed puddings) at lunchtimes only, to a largely besuited crowd. The “eclectic seating arrangements” can “be a surprise to newbies” – you either perch at “makeshift bar-tops”, or cram into the rear dining room where “service is hindered by the lack of room, but everyone mucks in and plates get passed around”. “The waiters are nearly as old as the building, but that just adds to its appeal…”. “Black Velvet is served in pewter tankards, and a ‘bill of fare’ serves instead of a menu”. The experience comes at “ridiculous prices”, but most reckon they’re worth paying… “and the place does now take cards”.

“Such a classic City venue” – former banker, Soren Jessen’s smooth operation in a converted banking hall near Bank station has traded off Square Mile expense accounts for 20 years. In the last survey, nobody thrillled to the cuisine, nor did they tend to have very harsh words for it – “whenever I’m looking for dinner with a nice wine, I head to 1 Lombard Street where I won’t be disappointed”. In July 2020, well-known chef, Mark Hix joined the business as the new Director of Food and Drink, working alongside Executive Chef Robin Freeman to develop the menu and the dining room has also acquired some Hix-inspired artworks.

“Good value” sushi, sashimi and other Japanese dishes trundle past your seat at these two ‘kaiten’ (conveyor-belt) operations in the City, tempting you to help yourself. It makes a fun, fast and efficient way to grab lunch. The chain also has takeaway and delivery options for evenings.

Bustling “no-frills” Japanese canteens that serve “great value” noodles and sushi at an efficient pace. The Soho original of over two decades standing has now been joined by branches in the City, Balham and most recently Kennington (which is a little more spacious).

“A great setting for high-powered, top-quality steak” – “the old bank manager’s office” of the former Midland Bank HQ, bang in the middle of the City, has been transformed seamlessly by Soho House into a wood-panelled grill, with such old-world touches as beef Wellington from the trolley at lunch. Initially reserved for the club’s members but now open to all-comers, it retains its clubby atmosphere and is (perhaps reassuringly) “very expensive, but worth going, even if just to marvel at the building”. A “fun brunch” is a secondary attraction.

“There’s always such a buzz at any time” at the original Cecconi’s, “tucked away behind the Royal Academy” – a “bustling” and “sophisticated” all-day Italian brasserie, whose “open, bright, pavement terrace” helps make it a big favourite amongst the St James’s set, be it “for an upmarket business breakfast”, or as “a treat during a day’s shopping in the West End”. When it comes to the cooking, it “can be a bit hit or miss, but is generally good”. Nowadays owned by Soho House, the brand is being rolled out, but its diverse family of spin-offs echo rather than replicate the original. There’s a City outlet in The Ned’s capacious food hall, which like Mayfair is “fun” and “an excellent place to do business” of a less formal kind. Beyond that, the food is “reliable” but pretty “basic at the price”, and the setting can be “the noisiest ever”. A Soho pizza spot carries the name, on which there’s little feedback. New in September 2018, the Shoreditch branch is “a very good addition as a real neighbourhood restaurant”, with a “nice bar”, and a generally “winning formula”, including for brunch.

“A great choice for a quick catch-up in the City” – this NYC-style Jewish deli operation vies with Cecconi’s within The Ned’s humongous food court as its most popular destination, and grabbing a dog, Reuben or burger here is also popular for a casual business meal (although conditions can be “extremely noisy”). Some of the dishes can be “ordinary” – its best feature is actually breakfast: “good coffee” (with unlimited refills) and lots of yummy options (“the Challah French toast is fantastic!”)

“Messy… but so tasty!” – the “best pizzas ever” win nothing but rave reviews for these “easygoing and fun” outlets (backed by the late Terry Wogan’s sons, Mark and Alan), which were out-scored only by the very narrowest margins by Pizza Pilgrims in the last survey as London’s best. “If you like funky topping combos, this is the place for you”.

“The best and freshest oysters by far, with seasonal varieties from time to time…”; “superb plateau de fruits de mer”; and “super-fresh fish” from an “ever-changing selection of specials”, all make this small group of seafood bistros “easy to love”. The style is “busy and jostling” throughout – “be prepared to share your table with other diners” in some locations – in others “some of the tables are so close, you’ll make new friends whether you want to or not!”. The Borough Market original and South Kensington spin-off attract most (and most favourable) reports – other branches (including at Battersea) can seem “a welcome addition but nothing remarkable”.

“Sustaining their excellent reputation”: these NYC-style steakhouses offer a solid and comfortable, rather than a particularly vibey environment, but when it comes to the quality of their meat – sourced in the UK, US and Spain; and dry-aged on-site – they are “second to none”; and the City branch, in particular, slugs it out with its nearby rival Hawksmoor as a favourite haunt of carnivorous expense-accounters. “Expensive but always a treat”.

“Escape the feel of the City for very reasonable home cooked-food” in the ancient crypt of Bow Bells church. “There are no better dining establishments in the Square Mile: affordable, great service, good food with delicious daily changing salads” including “excellent veggie and vegan options”. Depending on when you go, it’s either a “quiet” space or quite a “noisy” one.

“A cramped City Italian with good food”, this traditional venue off Bow churchyard “generally performs well” and (in non-Covid times) is “packed at lunchtime – particularly at the tables outside, when weather permits”. “Portions are huge” and there’s “a fantastic list of regional Italian wines, some of which you might not find elsewhere”. Ratings dropped in the last survey year, though, with the odd ‘off’ report.

In less than 20 years, Danny Meyer has transformed his New York City hot-dog cart into a global fast-food brand giant with eight outlets in London – including a Covent Garden flagship that was revamped earlier this year. Ratings remain remarkably solid for “a chain that does what it’s supposed to do”.

“In the City but without off-the-chart prices” – this spacious fixture occupies a comfortable, somewhat rustically themed two-floor site, by the Bank of England, and serves “good quality Spanish food”. “Good for a business meal”, but also relatively “fun”.

This very “convenient” and sizeable bar-restaurant from Drake & Morgan, near the Guildhall, is valued for its efficiency and reliable (if pretty standard) menu. Nothing about it will set the world on fire, but it’s a pleasant and versatile standby that can be pressed into action for any number of occasions.

This “warehouse-style” outfit from Gordon Ramsay near St Paul’s provides a handy amenity for business-lunchers and, out of business hours, has a “great atmosphere for families and groups”. But while it’s generally decent, especially for brunch, it’s rather “overpriced for what it offers” and apt to be “let down by average cooking and service”.

“Mindblowing!” – this “colonially-themed” yearling in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade is “another smash hit from JKS” and “probably the best place to eat in the Square Mile” right now. Occupying a “comfortable (slightly macho) sequence of little rooms”, staff are notably “patient and helpful”, while foodwise “the focus is on Indian sharing plates” with “insanely good” grilled meats (lamb chops in particular), plus “all your local curry favourites, dressed up with wonderful, perfumed aromatics and dazzling dips”. “They don’t pull any punches when it comes to heat in dishes either”, and “there’s a strong drinks menu too” – you can see “thought has gone into the beer selection”. With numerous TV screens, “it’s a great place to watch sports” (“they even have a pool table!”)