London City Restaurant Guide

“Mindblowing!” – this “colonially-themed” yearling in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade is “another smash hit from JKS” and “probably the best place to eat in the Square Mile” right now. Occupying a “comfortable (slightly macho) sequence of little rooms”, staff are notably “patient and helpful”, while foodwise “the focus is on Indian sharing plates” with “insanely good” grilled meats (lamb chops in particular), plus “all your local curry favourites, dressed up with wonderful, perfumed aromatics and dazzling dips”. “They don’t pull any punches when it comes to heat in dishes either”, and “there’s a strong drinks menu too” – you can see “thought has gone into the beer selection”. With numerous TV screens, “it’s a great place to watch sports” (“they even have a pool table!”)

“Some of the best Indian food in town” – “Cyrus and Pervin Todiwala are delightful hosts” and the “dated outside” of their City-fringe HQ “gives no clue that a meal here will be so delicious”. The cuisine offers “a different take on traditional Indian” (mixing Parsi and Goan dishes with more pan-Indian inspirations) and its longstanding “authenticity” and “creativity” is a continued joy, as is the “genuinely friendly way that TV-chef Cyrus T, OBE comes out to chat with guests”. “As good as you’ll get in Mumbai… and the traffic isn’t as bad!”

“It is rare to encounter a five-star ambience, as well as welcoming service, and a high standard of food, all at once in the City” and, on pretty much all accounts, there’s “no better place if you’re looking for an exceptional evening location” than the 37th floor of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ (“go for a walk in the garden... with a drink... take in the amazing view…”). As the survey was concluding in June 2019, chef Dan Fletcher left for Somerset, and a new chef, George Farrugia (ex-Bob Bob Ricard) joined this operation run by caterers ‘rhubarb’ – hopefully the good all-round performance will survive the upheaval.

“Oh my! A meat-lovers’ feast awaits!” at these “carnivorous havens”, where “evidently very well-sourced produce is expertly cooked and served in great platters of meaty delight!” (“go when you are hungry!”). There are “superb-value steaks”, but it’s the “mouthwateringly scrumptious” chops that inspire more feedback. Soho and the City occupy “urban-chic” basements, whereas Shoreditch is above-ground and more “warehouse-y”. Top Menu Tip – “bargain basement prices on Butchers Block Monday, with £10 corkage if you bring your own wine!”

“A real culinary tour of the best of Peru, with mouthwatering ceviche, smoky grilled meats and show-stopping desserts” (“we were blown away by the freshness and amazing flavour combinations”), “… all washed down with a pisco sour or two”, helps inspire rave reviews this year for this Latino duo – an “impressive-looking subterranean bar/restaurant in Mayfair”, and a similarly “buzzy and relaxed” set-up in the City, tucked away behind the Bank of England. “It’s best if someone else is paying” of course, but past flak about whopping prices was absent this year.

“The #1 Japanese noodles in London” – especially for those who prefer udon, the fat wheat noodles eaten hot or cold that are a healthier alternative to ubiquitous ramen. The 10-year-old Soho original has been joined by a City bar in the Bloomberg Arcade, although an offshoot at Victoria Market Halls closed after only six months this year. Choose the “very interesting specials and consistently good udon – the rice dishes are nice, but not as memorable”. Top Tip – “one of the few Japanese restaurants open for breakfast in the West End”.

“Ranks with the best beef I’ve ever had in London” is typical of the high praise earned by this smart two-year-old. “Mind you, it is right next to Smithfield” – a fact reflected in its straight-to-the-point menu – “and the maître d’ knows just the right wine to wash it down with”. It occupies an architectural gem of a townhouse once home to Sir John Betjeman.