Here’s our regular summary of what the national and local restaurant critics have been writing about in the week ending 16 January 2022. ***** The Sunday Times When Marina O’Loughlin paid a visit to Toklas, she initially felt like it was “the café attached to an out-of-town retail park” but when she left, she was […]

Continue reading


Here’s our regular summary of what the national and local restaurant critics have been writing about in the week ending 9 January 2022. ***** The Observer “Every dish, every snack and small plate, every bowl of pasta, side and sharing platter, arrives with a tap dance and a huge ta-da!” Rebuked (gently) for his overuse […]

Continue reading


Celebrity chef Gino D’Acampo is taking over a high-profile Italian restaurant in Cheshire frequented by footballers, it emerged this week as his My Pasta Bar trio reportedly went into liquidation with debts of £5million, including £37,000 owed to staff. The Alderley Edge branch of Piccolino, part of the Individual Restaurants group, last month announced it […]

Continue reading


Chef Kerth Gumbs, from the tiny West Indian island of Anguilla (pop 15,000), will bring some unusual Caribbean influences to new restaurant Boiler & Co, which opens behind Tate Modern in Southwark next week. Takeaway coffee will be available from next Friday, January 14, although diners may have to wait a little longer for a […]

Continue reading


Happy New Year! Here’s our regular summary of what the national and local restaurant critics have been writing about in the week ending 2 January 2022 – as expected, the food pages are full of Veganuary and Dry January once again, but there are a few real reviews, too. ***** Congratulations to the industry folk […]

Continue reading


Here’s our regular summary of what the national and local restaurant critics have been writing about in the week ending 26 December 2021. This is the last proper Review of the Reviews of the year, it’s a short but packed edition, with the ‘best ofs’ still trickling in (Marina and Grace delivered theirs last week, […]

Continue reading