London Kensington Restaurant Guide

Backstreet sushi restaurant in High Street Kensington of high ambition which typically elicits high praise, but which curiously inspired practically no feedback this year. By contrast its South Kensington spin-off, which occupies a characterful landmark (formerly Brompton Library) is usually ignored, but inspired a number of reports, mostly adulatory regarding its “exceptionally good” (if pricey) cuisine: “the chef asked us if we wanted him to do something special, he did, and it was the best sushi we have ever had”.

“When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

“Maybe the brand is a bit stretched”, but Richard Caring’s bold expansion is paying off by-and-large, certainly in commercial terms, and – though most branches’ average food-rating is run-of-the-mill – by the standards of large chains, the group delivers a consistent-enough formula, whereby folks accept predictable nursery fodder in return for a dependable dose of ‘affordable glamour’. The “beautiful and festive” Ivy Chelsea Garden (SW3) is the best known in the stable and it’s particularly “wonderful if you manage to get a table in their fabulous garden”. The “big and buzzy” Ivy Kensington Brasserie (W8) is less highly rated, but nevertheless fills a vital niche in the local market for a comfortable, atmospheric and versatile rendezvous (“its bar is also a fun place for a drink”). The City branches (The Ivy Tower Bridge, The Ivy City Garden EC2) and Canary Wharf outlet (The Ivy in the Park, E14) are the highest rated all-round (perhaps reflecting the ongoing lack of convivial spaces out east). “Awesome views” at Tower Bridge are distinct client-pleasers. Other branches taking above-average flak include The Ivy Soho Brasserie, W1 (“busy mayhem” with “slow and disorganised service”) and The Ivy Market Grill, WC2 (“nothing special, rather overpriced, and very busy”). See also Granary Square Brasserie.

“There aren’t many restaurants where I will queue for nearly two hours to get a table but it’s worth the wait!” – This “madly popular” Mumbai-inspired chain “has taken London by storm” and is now the capital’s most mentioned chain. Even if the heady days of its Covent Garden debut are long gone, criticisms that it’s “too popular for its own good” are most notable by their absence; and instead its “a firm favourite” for its massive army of fans who feel “it never fails to impress”. The “buzzy, Indian, faux-retro vibe” (“I felt transported to the Parsi eating houses of Bombay in the 1960s”) helps set up a “crazy, frenetic atmosphere”; and even if the “noise levels are pretty bad”, “somehow it all comes together”. It helps that service is “always punctual and friendly” (respect: it’s such a busy chain), and the tapas-y food – though no longer as bleeding edge as it once seemed – still feels “vibrant”, with a selection of dishes that’s “far from run-of-the-mill” (“recommended by all our Indian friends!”), plus “an exceptional list of drinks”. Breakfast here is unexpectedly “a true thing of beauty” too: “so different” in a brilliant way. “You can book during the day, but not at night” – “the wait is tedious, but the buzzer system works well” and cocktails at the bar help blur time. In mid 2019, the chain acquired the former Jamie’s Italian site next to its original WC2 branch in order to expand its footprint. Top Tips – “black dahl is still the best” and “the bacon naan is the greatest restaurant breakfast dish of all time!”.

“Would have expected a lot more from a Japanese restaurant within Japan House” is too often the verdict on this venue within the Japanese Government’s year-old showcase for all things Nipponese, which occupies Kensington’s former Derry & Toms department store. The place is not without advocates of its “attractive” design and “beautiful presentation” but even fans acknowledge it’s “on the expensive side” and some critics report really bad trips with “overly complex and heavy”, or even “shockingly bad” dishes.

This under-the-radar venture, in a smart row of businesses off Kensington High Street, has supplied “unexpectedly delicious” meals to a well-heeled local crowd for 10 years – although the consistently high marks should be no surprise given that it’s part-owned by star chef Phil Howard (of Elystan Street and formerly The Square). Atmosphere-wise, it’s somewhere between “quietly sophisticated” and “Spartan”.

“Affordable and with a nice vibe” – these good-looking, all-day hang-outs major in brunch, but make reasonably-priced options for a relaxed meal at any time. This year, they added Kensington High Street and Islington to the stable and spread beyond inner London to Surbiton and St Albans.

“Incredibly filling bowls of ramen” – backed up by “interesting menus of delicious food, served quickly with a smile” – attract an enthusiastic crowd to this small chain of hip Japanese-style fast-food bars, although feedback supports the view that “the original in Soho is by far the best”. The founder, Aussie-born, Nobu-trained chef Ross Shonhan, has spun off a series of “Asian-fusion” concepts – Flesh & Buns, Shack-Fuyu and his latest, Poke-Don.

With its “cosy red-leather booths” to the rear and attractive dining room and bar, this posh gastropub has been a “locals’ favourite” of chichi backstreet Kensington for 22 years. The food is “above average (fantastic steaks!)” and there’s a “decent wine list” – “what’s not to like?”.

This “proper, family-run Italian trattoria” in Kensington pre-dates the new Design Museum on the other side of the road by decades, and exudes “cosy”, “olde world charm”. That it’s “family-owned and family-friendly” is key to its longevity, and has made it a “go-to restaurant” for its many long-term regulars. But “after decades, the business has passed down a generation, and young and old alike agree it’s brought an improvement, with an approach that’s more energetic”. Its strengths are “a charming atmosphere”, “authentic Emilia-Romana cuisine, instead of the usual floods of red sauce” and the “unfailing and unflappable care of owner James Chiavarini and his well-trained staff”.

Formerly Pizzicotto (RIP) – the Chiavarini family (who have run nearby Il Portico since the '60's) have revamped their six-year-old spin-off and in June 2021 are taking it in a slightly more serious culinary direction. The wood-burning pizza oven is still in operation, but there’s more of an emphasis on trattoria style dishes, cured meats and pasta.

“Expertly prepared fresh fish” (“magnificent scallops, large and with the coral attached: so rare!”) makes it worth truffling out this “slightly expensive but useful local” – the Italian successor to the quiet Kensington site that was for aeons Chez Patrick (RIP), and which nowadays is in a more stylish guise, with the main dining room upstairs, and a counter downstairs.

The forgotten sibling of Mayfair’s swanky Tamarind inspires shockingly little feedback nowadays, but all reports continue to applaud this posh nouvelle Indian, which occupies an impressive converted banking hall near Kensington Palace Gardens: “top cuisine, with excellent service, and grand style”.

“No-fuss” Chinese dive in posh Kensington that’s “filled with surprising high-end customers, particularly given its shared table design” and beyond-retro 1950s decor. “The cheap food’s always the same: consistently delicious and freshly cooked – long may it continue in this expensive area”.

“Go for the wine: there’s a great selection” focused solely on Italy at this Kensington yearling, with bottles lining many of the walls. Even fans can note that the food (pasta, cheese and meat boards, salads) “is not as good”, but it avoids any harsh critiques. Brunch here is also a possibility.

“With such delightful views of Kensington Gardens, the food could so easily become secondary”, but the impressively glam 8th-floor of the “luxurious” Royal Garden Hotel has long been acknowledged as one of the capital’s best destinations thanks to its “consistently excellent” Chinese cuisine (“better than I had in Hong Kong!”). Its ratings came off the boil slightly this year however, amidst some unfamiliar accusations that “it’s going downhill and becoming very expensive”: “if this is the best Beijing Duck in town, then I’m the Emperor of China!”