Kensington, Italian Restaurant Guide

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This “proper, family-run Italian trattoria” in Kensington pre-dates the new Design Museum on the other side of the road by decades, and exudes “cosy”, “olde world charm”. That it’s “family-owned and family-friendly” is key to its longevity, and has made it a “go-to restaurant” for its many long-term regulars. But “after decades, the business has passed down a generation, and young and old alike agree it’s brought an improvement, with an approach that’s more energetic”. Its strengths are “a charming atmosphere”, “authentic Emilia-Romana cuisine, instead of the usual floods of red sauce” and the “unfailing and unflappable care of owner James Chiavarini and his well-trained staff”.

“Go for the wine: there’s a great selection” focused solely on Italy at this Kensington yearling, with bottles lining many of the walls. Even fans can note that the food (pasta, cheese and meat boards, salads) “is not as good”, but it avoids any harsh critiques. Brunch here is also a possibility.

“Expertly prepared fresh fish” (“magnificent scallops, large and with the coral attached: so rare!”) makes it worth truffling out this “slightly expensive but useful local” – the Italian successor to the quiet Kensington site that was for aeons Chez Patrick (RIP), and which nowadays is in a more stylish guise, with the main dining room upstairs, and a counter downstairs.

2018 Review: “Excellent, genuine Italian cuisine” helps makes this an “atmospheric” local in a backstreet near Kensington Square Garden. “Everything is homemade from the grissini to the pasta”, and they also do a “great breakfast and top pizzas”.