London Shoreditch Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: This potentially “very interesting” yearling in Shoreditch (on the site long famous as Eyre Brothers, RIP) with a ‘fire and ice’ theme – a combination of open-hearth, roast dishes with a raw seafood bar – failed to ignite passions amongst our reporters in its first 12 months, despite some adulatory press reviews. Some fans did proclaim its “amazing” dishes, but others said “how I hate this place” citing “terrible food and snotty service”. Perhaps the management just didn’t gel, as Jackson Boxer unexpectedly severed his ties with the place in August 2019, leaving Andrew Clarke to soldier on solo.

Still establishing itself pre-pandemic, this svelte Shoreditch Hotel – whose big, high-ceilinged Japanese-inspired dining room is in the basement, looking out onto a stylish, sunken garden – has never fully reached its stride, although it did inspire the odd “brilliant” report. As of September 2021, the hotel has yet to re-open post lockdown and its website reads: “we expect to reopen in late 2021. Please continue to visit our site for updates”.

You’re dating yourself if you remember when this busy, characterful pub was part of the first colonisation of Shoreditch as hipster central. Cuisine-wise, it has had highs and lows in recent years. But in early 2021 came news that 25-year-old Ruth Hansom – Great British Menu finalist and the youngest woman to win Young Chef of the Year – is now at the stoves. “Creative without reinventing anything, her emphasis is on fresh seasonal produce and the end result is mighty fine!” It’s served alongside “a small, decent but reasonably priced wine list”.

“Tasty Mexican street food” at this “buzzing” chain still wins over plenty of supporters, who swear by its “fresh, wholesome, family-friendly” grub (ideal for “when you’re on the hoof”). Others, though, complain that “the menu is getting a bit tired” and the “flavours can be a bit hit and miss outside the standard dishes”. Financial losses during the pandemic forced the chain to close nearly half its branches and sell a majority stake to South African billionaire Dick Enthoven, owner of Nandos. Founded in 2007 by former MasterChef winner Thomasina Miers and Mark Selby, it now has 10 remaining branches in London as well as venues in Brighton, Cardiff and Edinburgh.

This “sassy Peruvian” duo in Marylebone and Shoreditch are “spaciously set out, very atmospheric and pleasing to the eye”. But while the vibey locations are a big draw, they also offer “a multiplicity of delicious options”, making them “perfect for a mixed party of meat/fish eaters, vegetarians and vegans”.

Breezing in from West Hollywood, Soho House’s latest opening is a groovy-looking 80-seater plus loungey terrace, which sits on the glam rooftop (lots of steel, glass and greenery) of the Hoxton Hotel, with interesting views over The City. Exec chef Giacomo Pettinari has created a menu of Baja-Mexican dishes and a roving guacamole cart is all part of the fun (plus cocktails a-go-go too, of course). It opened too late for any survey feedback, but Fay Maschler, nowadays of Tatler, gave it a thumbs-up: “urbanista East London… meets leafy, bohemian Mexico” with food that’s “wonderfully light”, “delightfully more-ish” and “gone in a mouthful”.

2018 Review: All things Steve McQueen provide the theme for this comfortable and plushly decked out Shoreditch grill, which has “upped its game since a revamp last October”, serving very decent steaks and “killer cocktails”. Top Tip – BYO free on Tuesdays.

YOM! So say vegan types about the Beyond Meat patties at this expanding meat-free burger chain. Having been based in Pop Brixton, its horizons have now expanded to a permanent outlet near Silicon Roundabout (and also a residency in Brighton and delivery in Bristol).

Selin Kiazim’s “incredible” Turkish-Cypriot cooking “delivers every time” at her six-year-old Shoreditch venture, and is “paired with a great list of Turkish wines” by Laura Christie, who runs the front of house. The pair’s spin-off in Fitzrovia, first called Kyseri and later Oklava Bakery & Wine, closed down in 2020.

“Exceptional food” – in a Spanish/Moorish vein – combined with a friendly buzz and “great staff, too” again all win a major thumbs-up for Jonathan Lawson’s small and casual Shoreditch fixture, with counter seating on the ground floor and a compact upstairs dining room.

2019 Review: Mixed reviews for this big, all-day Italian newcomer by Old Street tube – a large, modern unit where they’ve spent a packet on the design. Some do praise its “imaginative” fare and say it’s a good place to take business associates, but there’s also a feeling that “the food doesn’t live up to the prices and comes in small portions”: “this is expense account grub for global biz travellers who truly believe ‘Silicon Roundabout’ is a really cool place”.

“A favourite spot in Shoreditch” – this sassy little haunt offers fab small plates “with an affordable price-tag” alongside well-chosen wines, to provide a very “pleasurable experience”. And it’s certainly a good all-rounder. But “a Michelin star? Simply put, why?”. The team has also spun out a lockdown project into something more permanent in the form of Royale at Bow Wharf (see also).

2019 Review: Garrett and Emer FitzGerald launched their first permanent venture on the former site of Santo Remedio (RIP) in Shoreditch: a take-away (ground floor) and jammed-in diner upstairs serves premium fried chicken; fair value, but food takes its time coming.

“If you love good quality, flavourful meat, you’ll love Blacklock” – this brilliant small chain wins a massive thumbs-up for its “unique, simple but tasty menu” incorporating steaks and chops, with “excellent side dishes (not usual for a steak place and a pleasant change)” and a growing veg-friendly selection. “The Blacklock at Home boxes they sold during lockdown (and thankfully continue to sell now) are fantastic!”. In late 2019 they announced a fourth, Covent Garden branch – as of August 2021 no opening date as yet.

“A total hoot, especially if it’s your birthday” – lunch at this glammed-up 70s-style Italian on two floors in Shoreditch is “like nipping to Sicily for the afternoon”. The Big Mamma Group’s tone is most definitely tongue-in-cheek rather than po-faced authenticity, with the Insta-friendly decor – “beautiful dining room adorned with flowers” – and cheesy menu items (‘pasta alla lamb-orghini’, anyone?). Still, the food can be creamily “delicious – with the standout dishes of truffle pasta & lemon meringue pie”.