Shoreditch, Burgers, Etc Restaurant Guide

Huw Gott and Will Beckett “do the ‘casual excellence’ thing very well indeed” and their still über-fashionable steakhouse chain (founded in 2006) occupies a niche in the hearts of London’s fooderati like no other, with its “distinctly clubby” (“big, loud and busy”) style, its “to-die-for cocktails” and its “top steaks”: British-bred and “char-grilled to perfection over wood fires, with deliciously indulgent sides”. Ratings for such a phenomenon have sometimes seemed middling in comparison to its renown – a reflection of the very full pricing that’s always been their policy. That said, despite some accusations that “it’s all gone downhill in recent times”, its grades actually bounced back significantly this year, and remain in line with its past best. The City branch in particular shines. “Dark dens and out-of-this-world quality beef are the cornerstones of dealmaking. What deal would not reach a happy ending fuelled by a perfectly cooked rib-eye, grilled bone marrow, and beef dripping fries? Throw in a bottle or two of bordeaux and that IPO is around the corner!” Top Tips – “£5 corkage on Monday BYO is an incredible deal” and starting the day at the Guildhall branch: “if anyone can do a better breakfast I’d love to try it!”

“The messiest, most delicious burgers ever; and a good selection of craft beers as well” – still the deal at this “hip” spin-off from the Meatliquor group, which brings the worship of meat to an old Christian missionary building (complete with stained glass windows and illuminated ceiling).

There’s “clear blue water between Patty & Bun and other wannabe mass burger offerings” – the only drawback is “you have to queue all the time”. Having started out as a pop-up, the small chain has grown to eight branches and two spin-offs: Smash Patty and Jefferies, a chicken specialist. The core of the offer is “burgers dripping in all the good stuff, loud tunes, friendly vibes and lots of napkins”. Top Tip – the “legendary lamb burger always makes me smile”.

“Still some of the best burgers around”, say fans of this French group, whose Gallic je ne sais quoi lends a certain superiority to the offering, while service is “friendly and speedy”. Its seventh outlet opened in Kingston early in 2019, at a time when rival mid-market operators were struggling.

“Unbelievably good ribs and pulled pork” continue to win top marks for street-food legend Mark Gevaux – even though he “concentrates more on his outrageously hot Holy F**k chilli sauce these days”. “The meat is melt-in-the-mouth, superbly cooked and exceptional value” – it’s “a pain that you have to wake up early-ish on a Sunday” to scoff a portion on Brick Lane, but the only other option is outside the Boleyn Tavern before West Ham home games.

“High-quality burgers” hit the spot at this funky small chain which “does the simple things well”. The outlets are “fab for families and kids – there’s something for everyone and puddings are a great crowd-pleaser”.