The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy can’t stop recommending the “fabulous” £16 steak-and-sides lunch deal at Scotland’s only branch of Hawksmoor, which is set in “an absolute belter of a 1930s building”, a former National Bank of Scotland banking hall.
“Mid-range steakhouses where wonky-toothed Brits can come over all Sinatra, sirloins and martinis are ten a penny in our cities now,” she said, “but Hawksmoor is the Ol’ Blue Eyes of them all.”
Everything Chitra tasted (until a disappointing dessert) was “stellar”. Rump steak was faultless at any price – “not too small, not too big, scorched and butter soft within” – while Caesar salad was “a pile-up of romaine obliterated by a 15-tog duvet of parmesan, fat gold croutons, minimal drapings of Cantabrian anchovy and enough fishy, eggy, creamy dressing to gloss the lips”. They can even cater for veggies: a beetroot dish was “sweet, smoky and luxed-up with horseradish crème fraîche.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-03-15