London Islington Restaurant Guide

“A much-needed alternative to the usual Upper Street fare” – James Cochran’s ambitious yearling is a ray of sunshine in N1, and even the less impressed minority who feel “it’s not quite up to the celebrity chef hype” generally feel “it’s nice to have something a bit different in the local area”. Quibbles also include the “cramped”, “corridor-like” space and service that can sometimes seem like “amateur’s hour”, but at its best this part-Scottish, part-Jamaican chef provides “exceptional dishes, with cleverly combined ingredients and subtle spicing”. Top Tip – “The £15 lunch deal is the gastronomic bargain of the year”: “extraordinary food, lovingly crafted, and at silly prices”.

“Tasty, good-value Turkish food” and “a warm welcome” make these “jolly” (lots of “dangly decorations”) Ottoman-themed stalwarts just “the sort of bistro you’d be pleased to have near you”.

“Tasty, good-value Turkish food” and “a warm welcome” make these “jolly” (lots of “dangly decorations”) Ottoman-themed stalwarts just “the sort of bistro you’d be pleased to have near you”.

“An amazing choice of wines” is served by “lovely staff, who are passionate and knowledgeable about the list” at these “proper wine bars”, whose liquid offering is “complemented by a very good food menu” of “well-made” dishes (small plates, plus cheese and charcuterie). The Battersea original is still the branch attracting most feedback, although the chain is spreading eastwards, and its operation in the crypt of St Bride’s Church and newer Liverpool Street branch are “very competent”: next stop is an opening in Canary Wharf.

Searching for that classic, “romantic”, “cheap ’n’ cheerful” bistro of legend? Try this “relatively inexpensive French local” off Islington’s Upper Street: “the food’s very good considering the price, and portions are generous”.

The “lovely Thai food” at these reliable cafés is “impressively authentic given that they are a chain” – “excellent value” and “fast”, if occasionally let down by “iffy service”. Founded in 2008 by Saiphin and Alex Moore, who inherited the name of their first East End site, the group has 18 branches in London and expanded to Liverpool, Manchester, Reading (delivery only) and Leeds following the sale of a majority stake to US investors. The couple also have two spin-offs, Lao Café in Covent Garden and the new Chinese noodle bar Hoh Sek in St Katharine Docks.

“Affordable and with a nice vibe” – these good-looking, all-day hang-outs major in brunch, but make reasonably-priced options for a relaxed meal at any time. This year, they added Kensington High Street and Islington to the stable and spread beyond inner London to Surbiton and St Albans.

“Irreverent pop-art-meets-punk surrounds” are the hallmark of this cult chain, home of the ‘Dead Hippie’ burger, washed down with ‘Grog’ (“powerful rum cocktails”), showcased by a new West End flagship just off Oxford Circus. “I thought I might be bored with yet another dirty burger-style place, but these are so good” for “when you need a ‘filthy’ treat” that’s “tasty as hell” (and, moreover, “much better than GBK, Byron and so on”).

“When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

An “excellent local Indian”, close to the Almeida Theatre, that wins consistently solid ratings for its cuisine, and – for non-carnivores – has “enough vegetarian dishes to be interesting”.

“Decent food but seriously cramped!” – that’s long been the trade-off at this tiny, barely decorated caff, by Islington Green, whose small selection of interesting curries makes it a “great local”.

“Massive flavours, great vibe” and the “best chicken wings tasted in a long time” (#nextlevel) add up to “heaven in a chintzy, porcelain bowl”, say fans of this “great value” concept based in Haggerston, now with branches in Covent Garden and Islington. “It’s not just about the chicken – yes, it’s mega-crispy and yes, it’s super-juicy, but what sets Chick ‘n’ Sours apart are the garnishes, sides and sauces” – many of them Asian-inspired, such as “the yummy, smashed, spicy, peanuty, cucumber side”.

“There’s no better choice if you’re going to Islington’s Almeida Theatre” than this “cheerful Puglian” nearby, which serves “way better food than its touristy appearance suggests”: “simple, flavourful Italian dishes” washed down with “sensibly-priced, rustic, southern Italian wines”. “The atmosphere is unfussy, friendly and easygoing: you get a great meal and a very reasonable bill”.

“Bustling” and “lovely” French-style bistro, which has been an Islington institution for almost 30 years, with its crowd-pleasing formula of a keen set price for each of the three courses (£4.95, £11.95 and £3.95 respectively): the food’s not art, but with value like this, nobody cares.

It’s a “spacious, modern and stylish” venue – on the site of Islington’s Almeida (RIP) – but owners D&D London and respected chef Francesco Mazzei “really ought to up their game” here: it “beats a pizza chain”, but should deliver much more. As it is, being “convenient for the Almeida Theatre” is one of the best things that reporters have to say about it: “without this neighbour they probably wouldn’t survive”.

Craft ales and on-site butchered meat combine at this “great local pub” in Islington – where the “hearty fare” is (perhaps unsurprisingly) “great for meat-lovers”. It’s “buzzy and busy”, so “expect to queue” at prime times.

“Nobody comes for the decor or service” when choosing this Chinese canteen near Angel, which has “zero charm”, to the extent some find it “a strange place”. But it’s definitely “worth a visit”, so long as you “stick to Hunanese and Sichuan dishes in which they specialise – spicy and challenging but very good”.

“Tucked away in Camden Passage”, this Islington institution is “still going strong after all these years” and remains a real “go-to place for family celebrations” for many north Londoners; as well as “a great place for a romantic dinner”. “The ordinary fascia hides a true gem inside”, leading onto “a modern, spacious and stylish interior” where the top seats are in the “lovely, light and airy back area”. It’s not a foodie kind of place, but the cooking is “contemporary and varied (the set menu never disappoints)”, and “staff are par excellence, always professional, but fun and cheery”.

“A feast for the eyes and always fresh, delicious” and full of “interesting flavour” – the “unusual salads” and habit-forming cakes at Yotam Ottolenghi’s starkly decorated café chain: an ongoing success-story particularly beloved of brunching yummy-mums and Guardian-reading types (“is this a restaurant or a cult?… some of the clientele on my trip seemed beyond parody”). “It’s only the food that makes it worth it” though – branches are “super-busy and never enjoyable” – and, given the prices, a visit can “feel like daylight robbery”.

A slice of Vienna in Camden Passage that’s “more than a coffee shop” (with “terrific brews and cakes”) but also “a lovely casual lunch or dinner spot” with “great” Austrian specialities including “perfect schnitzel”. A Ladbroke Grove offshoot closed down in early 2019.