The Observer
Jay Rayner visited a yearling on Islington’s competitive Upper Street, were the beautiful illustrations on the menu were more than matched by the fresh and punchy Vietnamese cooking.
All the usual Viet dishes were available – steaming bowls of pho, overstuffed banh mi, plump summer rolls – but Jay gravitated towards more unusual options: fried garlic crispy duck; prawns fried in a salted egg-yolk crust; goat fried in garlic and lemongrass; lightly battered and deep-fried whole seabass in thick, sweet chilli sauce – all of which pleased him.
“The next morning, I will be told by my loved ones that my breath is distinctly ‘savoury’. I wear this as a badge of honour.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-01-26