London Covent Garden Restaurant Guide

2019 Review: “Sitting above the indoor market at Covent Garden adds to the greasy-spoon vibe” of this central spin-off from the MEATliquor chain – “a good spot for a quick burger fix when out-and-about for the day in town”. There’s “not a worry about calories in sight” – just “burgers at their best, an excellent choice of sides (e.g. chilli cheese fries, monkey fingers and jalapeno poppaz) that add a bit of fire to the proceedings; and the milkshakes are a must-try!”

2021 Review: In less than 20 years, Danny Meyer has transformed his New York City hot-dog cart into a global fast-food brand giant with eight outlets in London – including a Covent Garden flagship that was revamped earlier this year. Ratings remain remarkably solid for “a chain that does what it’s supposed to do”.

“A fun night out” is not in doubt at this glitzy (if ever-so slightly “impersonal”) duo: be it on the 38th floor of the City’s Heron Tower (accessed via western Europe’s fastest lifts); or perched at the top of Covent Garden market, overlooking the back of the Royal Opera House. You get superb views in either location (particularly in the Square Mile, with its über-glam rooftop bars), plus “loud party music and great cocktails”. And, in fact, the Japanese/South American fusion food is yummy too. It’s just so “horrendously overpriced” that for a large proportion of folks it’s just “not really worth it”. The US-based group is an international one, with venues in Las Vegas and (scheduled for late 2021) Dubai.

In the heart of tourist Covent Garden – on the corner of the market itself, near The Punch & Judy pub – this large (200-seat) Italian arrived in late 2019. It’s the first venture outside Italy for Nicolo Marzotti, who has 13 restaurants back home. The jury is still out on whether or not it transcends its tourist trap location (including some seating on a balcony over the main market square).

A classic ‘rus in urbe’ venue – this lavish, flower-filled destination in a still-new-feeling Covent Garden development channels the charms of the well-known Richmond Park plant nursery in its two restaurants, interiors shop and florist. A “nice place”, undoubtedly, but one too often accused of serving “tiny, overpriced portions” of modern Italian food.

“Superb oysters” are the star attraction at this “casual and relaxed” venue just a few steps from bustling Covent Garden – but there’s “plenty of superb fresh seafood to choose from, if oysters aren’t your thing”. Ceviche and crab are highly recommended, while “the staff are absolutely lovely and very accommodating”.

The courtyard on a summer’s day is a “top setting” and adds lustre to this swish Italian in Covent Garden’s relatively new Floral Court development. There was more appreciation too this year for Italian cuisine that – while “not cheap” – provides “lovely, fresh, simple dishes with super presentation”.

“Cosily atmospheric”, with a “stylish theatrical ambience”, this little sister of Kitty Fisher’s in Shepherd Market (both are named after historical courtesans) is “particularly welcome in Covent Garden”. There’s a “delicious short menu” of “sophisticated British comfort food”, and “efficient but personal service which creates a warmish glow”. Top Tips: “the chips are to die for” and the kitchen “does rose veal like nowhere else”.

“Always ambient and fun” – Richard Caring’s stretching (twisting?) of the Ivy brand is easy to snipe at but has so far avoided degenerating into farce. For sure, “the food is certainly nothing superior”: fans may claim it’s “more than adequate”, but its overall ratings nowadays are only just the right side of poor. That said, even critics of the cooking often feel that the “lovely” interiors and “welcoming service” provide compensation, and fit the bill for making an occasion of a meal. In the capital, the most mentioned outlets are The Ivy Chelsea Garden (“delightful garden tables and ideal for a noisy girls’ night out”); and The Ivy Kensington Brasserie (“huge fun, loads of buzz” and “always a treat”). The Ivy City Garden and Canary Wharf’s Ivy in the Park follow along in terms of volume of feedback. The newest member of the spin-off family is The Ivy Victoria – a vast space with 300 guests over two floors.

“Makes me feel as if I’m back in Asia” – this “busy and large” Covent Garden “canteen” is the first London outlet of an “international chain specialising in dumplings”, founded in Taiwan 50 years ago. “In Bangkok, in Manila, in Singapore, this is mall food” – and after the launch here newbies were “not sure the PR hype was warranted” with “better in Chinatown”. Still, for “top soup dumplings” (xiao long bao) and “consistent dim sum” it does win lots of votes – “and if children get bored they can watch the chefs making the dumplings in the kitchens”.

“Would you find better in Stockholm?” – the Swedish buns at this tiny Covent Garden coffee house are “deliciously authentic”. “Serious coffee at a decent strength, and as for the cakes... well, just leave space in your schedule for an exercise class after eating one”. “The only issue is the very limited space of eight seats – at least 50% of the time you can’t get in!”.

For a “quintessentially British” meal, it’s hard to beat this Dickensian icon in Covent Garden (London’s oldest restaurant to operate continuously on the same site – since 1798), which has a “beautiful” Victorian interior; and which delivers an archetypal mix of grills, game and stodgy puds. To an impressive extent, it has avoided pure Tourist Trap status; and many regulars have “so many happy memories here, going back decades” thanks to its “comforting” formula. No denying, however, that it has become “very overpriced” in recent years and increasingly risks “living on its old reputation”. But, for the time being, the overall verdict remains that “it’s one of a kind and the world would be poorer without it”.