Covent Garden, Japanese Restaurant Guide

“I just love it: it’s so cheap ’n’ cheerful” chorus the many fans of this down-to-earth Japanese canteen in Chinatown, which has been for yonks “a great place for the freshest sushi and yummy tofu”.

“Top ramen with great broth and good combinations”, win fans for this genuinely Japanese chain (originating in Fukuoka), which has branches in Holborn, Embankment and Canary Wharf. Ratings, though, fall short of the top heights at the hands of those who feel its food is “not bad, but not memorable”. A fourth branch is to open in Fitzrovia in autumn 2019.

“A great night out, with fab food and drinks” is the accepted wisdom on Ross Shonhan’s rocking izakayas, whose original, Soho-basement location looks set to be eclipsed by its new Fitzrovia sibling – an impressively large (170 covers) space, which adds Peruvian-Nikkei fusion-dishes and an expanded range of smoked meats to its more-established repertoire of Japanese faves (sushi, sashimi, filled steamed buns). It’s “amazing food that will leave you feeling VERY FULL”. Ratings are dragged down, though, by reporters who find the flavour combinations “odd”, or the overall package too expensive. Top Tip – “given that the main menu can be pricey: the set menu before 6pm or tasting menu is by far the best way to go”.

“The lift ride up to the 39th floor is part of the fun”, when you visit the “amazing” City branch, in the Heron Tower, of this US-based chain (with siblings in Vegas and Miami): a Hollywood-esque scene, complete with a ritzy cocktail bar; vertigo-inducing outside terrace; and svelte dining room boasting “incredible views”. But while it can offer an all-round “great experience” – not least “fabulous” funky, fusion fare – its “pretty-looking” dishes come at extragalactic prices and sceptics feel that “you can eat this style of cuisine better elsewhere” nowadays. (Gripes of an overly “sweet note” to dishes also crept in this year). Its two-year-old WC2 sibling likewise has a superb setting on top of Covent Garden Market, overlooking the back of the Royal Opera House. But while it, too, is “all very slick and fashionable”, it, too, charges “obscene prices albeit for decent food” and – lacking the high-rise glam of the Square Mile – can seem more “clinical” and “pleased with itself”.

“Genuine”, “pleasingly quirky” and “unflashy” – these “humble”, extremely popular cafés offer “excellent-value Japanese food” from decent ingredients in “large portions” and are “always full” of “Japanese students and other Asian locals”. The “brusque” service is “a little haphazard, as is the seating”.

Yet another Japanese-influenced restaurant comes to London’s West End, next door to sushi, sashimi and robata grill spot Murakami in Covent Garden. As the name might suggest the menu features gyoza dumplings as well as ramen and bao buns.