Covent Garden, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“If one wants to wow a visitor to London” then this superbly atmospheric Covent Garden “old timer” – the capital’s oldest restaurant to operate continuously on the same site (since 1798) – is just the ticket. The “amazing”, “traditional” panelled interior is “very impressive”; and although the “classic British cooking” (rib of beef, game in season, steak ’n’ kidney) is decidedly “not cheap” and doesn’t please everyone, it mostly makes a decent fist of flying the native culinary flag. Given its prime location, it can inevitably be “overrun with tourists” at times, but it’s still a big hit with many locals too.

“Quintessentially British cuisine in very generous portions” is the raison d’être of this historic, panelled dining room, which has its bicentenary in sight; and where “a recent revamp seems to have done some good – it’s still old-fashioned, but in a good way”. But when it comes to the quality of the cooking, it’s still not a safe bet – there are regulars who feel “its roast beef and Yorkshire pudding never disappoints”, but there remains a sizeable contingent, who rate the beef “below average” and the accompanying veg “school dinner standard” – “such a shame for a wonderful old establishment”. Top Tip – a Full English here is a good way to start the day.

“One of London’s iconic dining rooms”: this panelled chamber – just off the foyer of The Strand’s famous Art Deco landmark – still exudes “old-school elegance”, and, even if it’s not quite the pre-eminent power dining scene that it was in Thatcher’s day, it’s still popular with expense-accounters, who particularly appreciate its “comprehensive wine list”. Under the stewardship of the Gordon Ramsay group, its “classic (old-fashioned even) menu” is “pricey but fabulous” to fans, but a wider view is that it’s “moderately average and not cheap”: “nothing wrong but no sparkle”.

“The wine bar all others aspire to be” (of an old school nature) – this characterful cellar just off Leicester Square is entering its 50th year, and has seen little change in that time. “The food, while a bit of an eighties throwback, is perfectly good for soaking up a few glasses” – and “you can’t beat the ham & cheese pie”, biggest seller on the menu since 1978. Owner Will Clayton, who took over from the legendary Don Hewitson, has also opened branches in Bayswater and Hampstead. As of November 2020, all the branches have been closed since the start of the first Covid lockdown and the social media for the restaurants is quiet – fingers crossed this epic stalwart of the West End re-opens some time soon.

“Lovely, airy underground café” in the large, rambling and atmospheric crypt of St Martin-in-the-Fields that’s “very useful for a quick lunch” by Trafalgar Square. There’s always “something for everyone”, including “good and varied soups” – and “it’s for a good cause”.