London Mayfair Restaurant Guide

“A real culinary tour of the best of Peru, with mouthwatering ceviche, smoky grilled meats and show-stopping desserts” (“we were blown away by the freshness and amazing flavour combinations”), “… all washed down with a pisco sour or two”, helped inspire rave reviews in the last survey for this Latino duo – an “impressive-looking subterranean bar/restaurant in Mayfair”, and a similarly “buzzy and relaxed” set-up in the City, tucked away behind the Bank of England. “It’s best if someone else is paying” of course, but past flak about whopping prices was absent this year.

“Everybody is smartly attired which makes a nice change” at Gavin Rankin’s (ex-MD of Annabel’s) “old-fashioned-in-a-good-way” bastion: “a picture-lined dining room”, tucked away in a quiet mews, which – to those of a blueblooded disposition – makes “a much more attractive choice than some of its flashier Mayfair rivals”. “Well-drilled”, traditionally-attired staff deliver “classic” – if “fairly simple” – Anglo/French cuisine and, in particular, the package makes “an excellent choice for a business lunch” (of the kind where “a couple of dry Martinis before you get started will not raise an eyebrow”).

“Amazing, incredible, unlimited everything and WOW!” – for a “quintessential afternoon tea experience”, the “elegant, calm and bright” third-floor dining room of The Queen’s favourite grocer offers a “fine” (and “extremely filling”) experience, encompassing “a tea selection to die for”, “wonderfully inventive cakes”, and “delicious and plentiful sandwiches and scones”. “Yes, it is a bit pricey, but it’s an experience to be savoured, and the posh doggie bag they give you means dinner is sorted too…”

“A delight!” – Shaun Rankin’s “exceptional” and “beautifully presented” cuisine at this posh, Mayfair hotel dining room wins acclaim from all reporters this year: “not sure why it doesn’t have a stronger following – highly under-rated”. He made his name on Jersey – an ‘ormer’ is a Channel Islands gastropod – before shifting to the capital in 2016. “It’s a beautiful interior, but the basement setting can make it a bit gloomy for lunch”.

The “fantastic”, “properly spicy and tasty” Indian cooking at this Mayfair three-year-old is “definitely of the quality and invention of Jamavar” – its celebrated stablemate nearby. Taking inspiration from Mumbai street and comfort food invites the comparison to an “upmarket Dishoom”, while the departure of founding chef Rohit Ghai has thus far only had limited impact on the excellent ratings.

“Classic and club-like (without being oppressive)” – Richard Corrigan’s spacious Mayfair HQ, just off Park Lane, offers a traditionally luxurious experience, focused on “unfussy”, top-quality British cuisine (from head chef, Aidan McGee). Its ratings looked less secure this year, though, with mounting concerns about its vertiginous pricing – to fans “even if it’s expensive, the quality is there”, but to foes it now seems “extremely overpriced” to an extent some feel is “ludicrous”. Top Tip – “superb value set lunch”.

“If you want Chinese food at its best”, numerous reporters award top marks to Bernard Yeoh’s luxurious Mayfair fixture, which has held a Michelin star for over 10 years now, and which is unusual in boasting a heavyweight wine list featuring many of the world’s most famous vintages. Even those who say it’s “brilliant” acknowledge it’s decidedly “not cheap” however.

Mixed reports in the last survey on this swish first-floor Indian, in the heart of Mayfair, which severed ties in August 2018 with its original founder. Fans said it was “still excellent, despite Atul Kochhar’s departure”, serving “very nicely balanced, spiced and well-prepared” Indian cuisine that offers “a real twist compared to what’s usually found in the UK”. Its ratings waned, though, with gripes re-emerging about its slightly “dull” interior, and with concerns about cooking that “may not justify the price tag”.

2019 Review: “Like an old London club”, this traditional Mayfair dining room is “spacious” and “there is absolutely no rush to serve you and get you out”. In a similar vein, “you wouldn’t necessarily go there for the food”, except for the afternoon tea in the adjoining ‘Conservatory’, go for the classic or novelty-themed version (it’s currently ‘The Original Sweetshop’).