London Mayfair Restaurant Guide

2018 Review: “Wow! What a lot of fun”. This “exciting” Peruvian in Mayfair is “that rare restaurant” which can deliver “a truly spectacular meal”, with an “amazing atmosphere (especially when the band starts playing)” and “exquisite flavour combinations” that “set the palette alight”. Even fans though say “the prices are as outstanding as the cuisine”.

“Everybody is smartly attired which makes a nice change” at Gavin Rankin’s (ex-MD of Annabel’s) “old-fashioned-in-a-good-way” bastion: “a picture-lined dining room”, tucked away in a quiet mews, which – to those of a blueblooded disposition – makes “a much more attractive choice than some of its flashier Mayfair rivals”. “Well-drilled”, traditionally-attired staff deliver “classic” – if “fairly simple” – Anglo/French cuisine and, in particular, the package makes “an excellent choice for a business lunch” (of the kind where “a couple of dry Martinis before you get started will not raise an eyebrow”).

“Amazing, incredible, unlimited everything and WOW!” – for a “quintessential afternoon tea experience”, the “elegant, calm and bright” third-floor dining room of The Queen’s favourite grocer offers a “fine” (and “extremely filling”) experience, encompassing “a tea selection to die for”, “wonderfully inventive cakes”, and “delicious and plentiful sandwiches and scones”. “Yes, it is a bit pricey, but it’s an experience to be savoured, and the posh doggie bag they give you means dinner is sorted too…”

“Exemplary Italian ingredients cooked to perfection” and “served impeccably by delightful people” has earned a glowing reputation for the English-born former River Café chef, whose dining room off the foyer of the 1970s-built Intercontinental Hotel tower near Hyde Park Corner provides some of London’s best Italian cuisine. The “soulless setting” always attracts adverse comment, although it is “much improved” since its renovation a few years back.

“A delight!” – Shaun Rankin’s “exceptional” and “beautifully presented” cuisine at this posh, Mayfair hotel dining room wins acclaim from all reporters this year: “not sure why it doesn’t have a stronger following – highly under-rated”. He made his name on Jersey – an ‘ormer’ is a Channel Islands gastropod – before shifting to the capital in 2016. “It’s a beautiful interior, but the basement setting can make it a bit gloomy for lunch”.

The “fantastic”, “properly spicy and tasty” Indian cooking at this Mayfair three-year-old is “definitely of the quality and invention of Jamavar” – its celebrated stablemate nearby. Taking inspiration from Mumbai street and comfort food invites the comparison to an “upmarket Dishoom”, while the departure of founding chef Rohit Ghai has thus far only had limited impact on the excellent ratings.

“Classic and club-like (without being oppressive)” – Richard Corrigan’s spacious Mayfair HQ, just off Park Lane, offers a traditionally luxurious experience, focused on “unfussy”, top-quality British cuisine (from head chef, Aidan McGee). Its ratings looked less secure this year, though, with mounting concerns about its vertiginous pricing – to fans “even if it’s expensive, the quality is there”, but to foes it now seems “extremely overpriced” to an extent some feel is “ludicrous”. Top Tip – “superb value set lunch”.

“Authentic Mexican street food” stars in the “not-at-all street-food setting” of the Park Lane Intercontinental hotel in this three-year-old from celebrated Mexico City chef Martha Ortiz. The food both “looks and tastes amazing”, although – not surprisingly, given the location – it is “expensive for what it is”.

It’s as a site for an exceptional afternoon tea – with fusion-flavoured finger sarnies adding some brio to the traditional experience – or a “chic brunch” that this posh brasserie, in a conservatory addition to Mayfair’s most upper-crust of hotels, excites enthusiasm. When it comes to star NYC-chef, Jean Georges Vongerichten’s “unusual” main menu – from pizza to caviar via truffle cheeseburger (and minus the SE Asian notes for which the chef is most famous) – it can seem like a “stunning and relaxing” experience… or merely “overpriced”, “tired and lacking flavour”.

“If you want Chinese food at its best”, numerous reporters award top marks to Bernard Yeoh’s luxurious Mayfair fixture, which has held a Michelin star for over 10 years now, and which is unusual in boasting a heavyweight wine list featuring many of the world’s most famous vintages. Even those who say it’s “brilliant” acknowledge it’s decidedly “not cheap” however.