Mayfair, French Restaurant Guide

“Absolutely iconic, with superb everything!” or “not up to the hype” (“how she was awarded three Michelin Stars, goodness knows!!!”) – Hélène Darroze’s 12-year tenure at the most blueblooded of Mayfair hotels continues to split reporters, as it always has. With its “exceptional, amazing presentation and exotic flavours”, the cuisine’s overall scores in our survey do, undoubtedly, rank it amongst London’s best; but equally they suggest that the Tyre Men’s January 2021 promotion to its top billing is over-egging things a bit (perhaps because she’s French?). Also divisive is the “somewhat under-the-radar, modern-luxe refurb” of this famous dining room in late 2019. To fans, the new guise is “warm” and “well-spaced”, but to detractors it seems “funny peculiar” (“if only the surroundings had preserved a little of the elegance of the old Connaught dining room”). The excruciating final bill is also an issue, even to its most ardent fans: “words cannot do the food justice. I could have cried eating every dish… But I did actually cry when the bill arrived!”.

2021 Review: In a Mayfair townhouse that was formerly the short-lived Babel House (RIP), this ‘contemporary bistro de luxe’ features a southern French menu from chef Thierry Laborde, and opened in mid-2019, too late for any survey feedback. In his early review, The Evening Standard’s David Sexton focused on its handsome design, variably realised and expensive cuisine, impressive wine list and bargain set lunch (£25 with wine).

2021 Review: An all-day brasserie-concept from luxury Mayfair restaurant Park Chinois: the 92-cover venue launched in July 2019, with chef Gennaro Vitto, who was previously a pastry chef at Park Chinois, at the stoves.

“Great French food in a relaxed setting” makes this “cosy” Soho bistro a magnet for London diners wanting a taste of Belle Epoque Paris. Launched in 2013 by three brothers and named after their mother, the establishment “consistently delivers to a high standard”. A sister venue in Brick Lane has closed down.

On the Mayfair site of Indian Accent (RIP), this chic May 2021 newcomer is the first London outpost of Gallic TV chef Cyril Lignac, who owns four Parisian restaurants. Unlike his St Germain venture of the same name – which serves only raw food to soak up the cocktails – here at this 100-seater (with ground floor and basement) you can find luxurious hot bites: e.g. scallops with caramelised miso, Madras curried crab, or satay fillet steak. There are also nearly 250 wines and cocktails. Early reporters acclaim this as an “amazing and really original” venue, but even they can find it “overpriced” (a slight echo of the views of the Guardian’s Grace Dent, who judged it ‘a not-very-good restaurant’).

“Every dish is a winner” – “the freshest-tasting ingredients, served simply, Mediterranean-style” – at this slice of the French Riviera transposed to a Mayfair mews. Much of its personality derives from the “expensive and very international crowd” that it attracts (“the noise level can make conversation difficult”), but while it’s “not cheap, great care is taken”. Now known by its acronym, it is modelled on the original La Petite Maison in Nice, and chef Raphael Duntoye has spun the concept out to the Middle East, Miami and Hong Kong in recent years. The London flagship was extended in 2020, with the addition of a seafood and cocktail bar.

2019 Review: “Hope they can get their act together...” This year-old London outpost of a models-and-celebs hangout in Paris’s 1er arrondissement (where Kim and Kanye are apparently regulars) has failed to inspire much gastronomic excitement for its international comfort food since landing in Mayfair’s cute Shepherd Market.

With the passing of Joel Robuchon and closure of Covent Garden’s L’Atelier de Robuchon (RIP), this newish (late 2019) Mayfair venture is the main London torch-bearer for this famous French gastronomic name (see also ‘Le Deli Robuchon’ on Piccadilly, but it’s of no huge culinary ambition). The dining room – with a gorgeous marble bar running down one side, and tables with banquette seating down the other – is very fine and grand and already winning fans as a prime “business” choice. The luxurious modern French dishes are of high quality, with many echoes of L’Atelier (but perhaps a little simpler and less expensive), and a good proportion of early reporters acclaim this as their best meal of the year.

2021 Review: “It feels like a proper Gallic bistro”; and this ‘petit coin’ of Mayfair’s cute and atmospheric Shepherd Market is reasonably “authentic” all-round – “the classic French cooking takes you away on holiday” all without leaving W1, and it’s most popular as a place for wooing a date.

2019 Review: For a taste of ‘la vie en rose’, head to this atmospheric Shepherd Market bolthole – “a reminder of bistros in small French towns years ago”. “The cooking is simple traditional French, with some depth of flavour”, while “the wine is very reasonably priced, especially for Mayfair”.

Following closure of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon and the death of the man himself, this Picadilly café is now one of two London ventures opened in late 2019 by the group he founded. It’s all very chic and continental, but you don’t come here for culinary adventure – but to buy or snack on everyday staples (lots of tempting patisserie and viennoiserie, lasagna, club sandwich, Caesar salad…).

Alain Ducasse made headlines in May 2021 by parting company with Dorchester Collection’s Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, but he maintains his relationship with this, his UK flagship. Despite holding three Michelin Stars, our mixed survey feedback has always questioned the Tyre Men’s assessment here. On the plus-side, there are advocates who say Jean-Philippe Blondet’s cuisine is “always fabulous”, and is supported by “glorious wine” and staff “who really know what they are doing”. On the minus side, though, it’s hard to ignore the very large number of reporters for whom the experience is wildly “overpriced”, and the almost complete absence of support for Michelin’s notion that this is really one of London’s top five dining rooms.

“Glitz and completely OTT surroundings make this an experience that will be remembered” – there’s all-round applause for this “fabulous and very romantic” dining room, on the top floor of a Mayfair palazzo of fairy tale grandeur. For the most part, despite the terrifying pricing, this praise also extends beyond the “magnificent” setting to the “superb” cuisine, which is overseen (from afar) by star chef Pierre Gagnaire. Meals “come with so many bits and bobs, so you don’t really know where to start” but on nearly all accounts it’s “superb”. Whether Michelin should really have awarded it three stars, though, is debatable. A fair summary: “Grade A for effort, but it’s all a bit too much”.

If you want to visit this “fantastical location” within Mourad Mazouz’s lavish Mayfair palazzo – a vision in pink from designer David Shrigley – then afternoon tea is the way to go: “it’s one of the more expensive options in town”, but “fabulous”. For dinner, however, this wacky chamber often seems “overpriced”, although – to be fair – this appears to be of absolutely no concern to the fashionista crowd it perennially attracts. Go once, anyway, to visit the egg-shaped loos!

Still in the development stages, this two-storey French/Mediterranean restaurant takes over the former Kallos Gallery; it's the project of French businessman Jean Philippe Kley, who already part-owns a local members' club. Originally due to open in 2021, it's now expected in 2022 and will feature a secret tunnel for members to access the club.