Mayfair, French Restaurant Guide

“When everywhere else seems forced to bow to fashion and follow the latest trend, Le Gavroche sails serenely on, delighting those who appreciate the true heart and spirit of gastronomy!!” Michel Roux Jr’s Mayfair “haute cuisine temple” (here since 1982, founded by his father Albert in Chelsea in 1967) may “in some respects reflect an earlier era of fine dining”, with its “fabulous” Gallic cuisine (“superb Omelette Rothschild”, “soufflé Suissesse to die for!”…), but that merely reinforces its position as “an absolute favourite” for its massive following, who confirm that “every mouthful is a delight”. “Very warm and welcoming staff have absolutely nailed the balance in service, friendliness and knowledge” and – especially for a basement – the very “grown up” dining room is supremely “cosy, luxurious and celebratory”. “As well as top notch food, the wine list is spectacular and although there are oligarch-friendly, five-figure bottles, if you look there are some gems for those willing and able to pay more for a special wine”. And “the great man’s regular presence is one of the special things about Le Gavroche” – “Michel told us some of the history of the restaurant and really made us welcome!” A visit is a second-mortgage job, of course, but there’s a “marvellous value set lunch (even if you do have to book it three months in advance)”.

“The beautiful room… the attentive, enthusiastic and highly competent staff… the exceptional precision of the cuisine, together with its subtlety” – Hélène Darroze’s “romantic” operation in this most pukka of Mayfair hotels is a fine example of “refined, effortless and luxurious ‘art de la table’” (including a notably good wine list) and its many advocates feel you “can’t fault the place”. Sceptics agree “it’s very good… just not worth the mega prices”.

“In a slightly barren part of town” – just behind Bond Street tube – this “little gem” opened in summer 2017, with two young chefs (Alex Harper, ex-Harwood Arms and Mark Jarvis, ex-Anglo) inspired by the modern Parisian bistro movement. It’s a “great concept” with accomplished cuisine (“a showcase of ingredients and technique”), “accommodating service” and “a thoughtful wine list”.

First timers can “look around in disbelief at the over-the-top decor” on the first floor of this huge Mayfair palazzo (and that’s before the call of nature takes them to the ‘Swarovski Crystal Bathrooms’), and it is a “most opulent” and “seductive” setting in which to enjoy ambitious cuisine overseen by überchef Pierre Gagnaire. Its ratings took a dive this year, however, as its vertiginous prices can seem as overblown as the interior design (it doesn’t help that “sadly it looks like the Gourmet Rapide lunch has been guillotined”).

“Truly spectacular panoramas across Buckingham Palace” (The Queen has, it is said, never forgiven them for building this place) make this 28th-floor dining room a big romantic favourite; and similarly, if on business, “clients can’t help but be impressed with the outlook”. With its “lovely” cooking and “excellent service” it’s hard to fault generally, other than that, predictably, “it’s not very competitively priced!” Top Tip: cheapskates can get all the view for the price of a cocktail in the adjoining bar.

You feel “far from the madding crowd, but in the heart of Mayfair” at this “stylish” haunt “tucked away near Park Lane”, where “a pretty entrance through a city garden leads to a calm and well-styled modern interior”. It’s a “spacious” and luxurious room which is “great for business, but which would also impress a date” (although it can also seem “a bit stiff” for some tastes). Having won gastronomic acclaim (not least two Michelin stars) in recent times with some “exemplary” modern cuisine, Arnaud Bignon moved on in mid-2018, perhaps explaining why ratings in this year’s survey were lower across the board. New exec chef Alex Dilling (ex-Hélène Darroze) has promised to shake up the menu, with a focus on British and fresh produce. One constant, however: “one of London’s best wine selections, especially if you are able to use your business credit card”.

For a taste of ‘la vie en rose’, head to this atmospheric Shepherd Market bolthole – “a reminder of bistros in small French towns years ago”. “The cooking is simple traditional French, with some depth of flavour”, while “the wine is very reasonably priced, especially for Mayfair”.

“Yet another new chef and change of design”… yet this twice-relaunched Mayfair temple of gastronomy (both times by recent buyer, Marlon Abela) nowadays bears a not-so-different set of strengths and weaknesses from its original self. Chef (since November 2017) Clement Leroy “maintains the highest standards” and fans feel it “deserves to reclaim its position as one of London’s top tables” (although you can quibble as to whether the cuisine is quite as good as under Phil Howard). Despite attempts to pep up the room, it retains a “slightly downbeat ambience”, but this doesn’t put off the expense accounters for whom it’s always been a favourite, drawn in part by its ever-formidable wine list.

“Always top of its game and up there with the best” is how we’ve customarily reviewed this glam Mayfair haunt, just around the corner from Claridges, which perennially attracts a Côte d’Azur-style crowd with its sunny, gorgeously light sharing plates and easygoing “busy and buzzy” glamour. Its ratings took a bit of a dip this year, however – it’s always been “a bit too expensive” but hitherto no-one has seemed to mind.