Mayfair, Indian Restaurant Guide

Despite a vintage stretching back to 1926, London’s oldest Indian (part of the same group as Chutney Mary) doesn’t merely trade on its guidebook potential, with “subtle” and “original” cuisine, “dedicated” service, and a first-floor setting, whose agreeable looks are thoroughly modern. It seems to have become “a wee bit pricey” of late, though, “but it is in the heart of the West End, so perhaps not excessively so”.

“Boldly flavoured” nouvelle Indian cuisine served in a “dark and clubby”, colonial-theme setting puts Leela Palace’s Mayfair three-year-old in London’s premier league, if not perhaps quite at the top of the table: “not as memorable as some top names, but definitely a favourite”. But while it’s “a good attempt at taking Indian cuisine to the next level”, it lacks the stunning verve fans recall from when it first opened: “a fun evening out, but it will need to do better again to match the best of the best”.

“Still at the top of its game” – the Sethi’s “posh Indian” in Mayfair is “worth the hype” and remains the most-mentioned Indian in the survey on account of “memorable and beautifully flavourful” cuisine delivered by “warm and friendly staff” in an enveloping, old-colonial-style setting: “get a booth on the ground floor and prepare to be transported!” Top Menu Tip – “How I love the tandoori lamb chops. After a marinade in spices, these thick pieces of meat become so succulent, tender and taste-laden, are magnificently presented and really delicious on the eager palate!”. NB: Just as the survey closed, in June 2019, a fire gutted the restaurant and according to its website it remains “closed until further notice”.

“The food speaks volumes” – “sensational grills, exquisite curries and traditional biryanis” – for most (if not all) who report on this pioneering Mayfair venture, which helped validate the whole concept of posh Indian restaurants in the UK. It’s “a pity about the basement location” though, and the 2018 refurb designed to give a “light and airy modern” interior has proved “OK, but not really an improvement… if anything noise levels are higher”.

'Flavours of Calcutta'; opening in 2020.

After winning a mentorship in a pop-up competition at Westfield White City Shopping Centre in 2019, Mehak Kansal is opening her first bricks-and-mortar restaurant, serving "epic" Indian street food in swanky Mayfair - and already has plans for a second site in 2021.