ROW on 5

Harden's 100

Summary

“An absolutely stunning new opening that helps put London firmly on the map as a global leader in gastronomy”: “everything from stepping through the front door to the last bite of the 15-course menu is perfection”, according to all of the many reports on this “finely tailored” arrival amidst the bespoke suit-makers of Mayfair’s Saville Row. Backed by Jason Atherton, “the level of ambition is in a different league to anything else seen in the Atherton stable” and indeed at a height seldom seen generally. Chef Spencer Metzger is most recently known for his much-celebrated tenure at Jason’s Row on 45 in Dubai, and his pedigree is on full display here. And although “the tyre men did give it a very quick star”, our diners are clear that “this is underselling it, as the performance is already comfortably at the upper end of Michelin two star” (the level he was at in Dubai). “A huge level of thought has been put into the experience from start to finish”: service is “passionate, charming and finely-pitched”; and the “fantastically lavish” room “a luxurious, well-dressed space”. But the food is the real highlight: “high-quality ingredients, solid combinations and delicate cookery make this a place that inspires an excitement to return to as soon as possible”. There is also “the most enviable of cellars”: the list is “an absolutely titanic volume that sits on your lap like the book of judgement. If prices are high, it’s forgivable because it is so clearly a passion of the place”. “There’s even a gimmick! They will dry-clean your jacket while you dine”.