London Hackney Restaurant Guide

“Beautiful food, with elegance and full, intense flavours” from a menu of “simple, high-quality dishes”, backed up by a list of “natural wines from top importers” – all served in a “laid back”, semi-industrial space (formerly Ellory, RIP) – wins adulation for this yearling in London Fields, from the team behind fooderati fave-rave P Franco.

“A clever, Italian-Japanese fusion that actually works well, who knew!?” – this tiny and original six-seater in Dalston inspires nothing but love amongst early reporters. “If you’re bored of the endless tasting-menus trend in the food scene, the one here is top notch” – with five courses for £39 (or you can order individually at £9 per plate). “Bargain!” – “I went back the next day...”

“Lovely, rich, authentic Spanish fare (octopus to die for)” with Galician specialities, again wins praise for this “somewhat shabby-chic” tapas haunt in Newington Green: “it can get refreshingly noisy!”

“Some of the best burgers in London” – including a “sublime, fried, hot fish burger” and “a real vegetarian burger (that isn’t pretending to be anything other than a real, delicious vegetarian burger)” – make it well worth discovering this hip new Shoreditch diner. When it comes to going ‘beyond’, “some of the tapas style starters are worth trying too” (cauliflower cheese balls, fried chicken bites…)

“Top vegan food in town, courtesy of Club Mexicana” is to be found at this “cool” east Homerton hostelry: London’s first 100% vegan pub. Even those who feel it’s “hyped” and only “OK if you’re in the area” say “they must be doing something right as it’s packed”.

“Oh my! A meat-lovers’ feast awaits!” at these “carnivorous havens”, where “evidently very well-sourced produce is expertly cooked and served in great platters of meaty delight!” (“go when you are hungry!”). There are “superb-value steaks”, but it’s the “mouthwateringly scrumptious” chops that inspire more feedback. Soho and the City occupy “urban-chic” basements, whereas Shoreditch is above-ground and more “warehouse-y”. Top Menu Tip – “bargain basement prices on Butchers Block Monday, with £10 corkage if you bring your own wine!”

In oh-so-now Haggerston, this neighbourhood newcomer – from chef Adam Hardiman (ex-St John and The Dartmouth Arms) – opened in November 2018, offering a seasonal, daily-changing menu. It is rated on the limited survey feedback received to date, but all of it is very upbeat, in keeping with newspaper reports and social media buzz about the place.

“Paradise for serious foodies” – “a street notorious for once being crime-ridden is now home to Hackney’s best-value dining experience: £39 for a seven-course tasting menu”, according to practically all reports on ex-Pidgin chef, Adolfo de Cecco’s “intimate-feeling” foodie venture. “Thoughtful food is excellently executed by a team with evident passion” and if “a few technical slip-ups can creep in, the charming, passionate service (often by the chefs themselves) more than makes up for this”.

“Great vibe, great food” – Moro’s “busy”, “tightly packed” spin-off, a few doors away along Exmouth Market, combines Spanish and North African tastes into “terrific” tapas dishes, served in a “laid back” fashion. A second, slightly larger Morito on Hackney Road, not far from Columbia Road flower market, wins equally enthusiastic approval.

If it wasn’t backed by the Clove Club, it’s hard to know how much buzz this rather functional, Shoreditch-vibe newcomer (on the busy Kingsland Road) would otherwise have generated. The website describes the cooking as ‘modern American’, in line with the starry NYC-focused CV of chef Chase Lovecky, but if the words ‘modern European’ were substituted, probably no-one would ever notice the difference. Terminology aside: feedback on the deliciousness of the resulting small plates themselves – while surprisingly limited – has all been upbeat, but, to be harsh, only middling judged by the red-hot standards for this kind of dining in the area generally.