London Hackney Restaurant Guide

In early summer 2019 (just as our survey was getting underway), some of the backers behind P Franco and Bright opened this: another painfully hip, East End natural wine bar (on the former site of Hackney’s now-defunct Legs – geddit?). This time Australian chef Byron Fini is at the stoves cooking up a small menu of light, “Japanese-izakaya-style” bar snacks – including ferments and pickles, and majoring in grilled skewers (lots of them chicken-related) – which are served in a bright, stylishly-neutral, small space that’s very ‘now’ (communal seating, tabletops made from recycled yoghurt pots, vinyl soundtrack, etc). Foodwise, the odd disappointment is noted (“if you want Japanese, go to a Japanese restaurant”) but most reports are in line with the rhapsodic write-ups it’s received in the press, rating the dishes very good to exceptional.

Hot news from Hot Dinners. Ex-River Cafe and St John Bread & Wine chef Max Rocha has opened this canalside spot in Hackney (part of the new WMe8 development) after running a lockdown delivery venture and supper clubs.

“Beautiful food, with elegance and full, intense flavours” from a menu of “simple, high-quality dishes”, backed up by a list of “natural wines from top importers” – all served in a “laid back”, semi-industrial space (formerly Ellory, RIP) – wins adulation for this yearling in London Fields, from the team behind fooderati fave-rave P Franco.

“A clever, Italian-Japanese fusion that actually works well, who knew!?” – this tiny and original six-seater in Dalston inspires nothing but love amongst early reporters. “If you’re bored of the endless tasting-menus trend in the food scene, the one here is top notch” – with five courses for £39 (or you can order individually at £9 per plate). “Bargain!” – “I went back the next day...”

“Lovely, rich, authentic Spanish fare (octopus to die for)” with Galician specialities, again wins praise for this “somewhat shabby-chic” tapas haunt in Newington Green: “it can get refreshingly noisy!”

“Some of the best burgers in London” – including a “sublime, fried, hot fish burger” and “a real vegetarian burger (that isn’t pretending to be anything other than a real, delicious vegetarian burger)” – make it well worth discovering this hip new Shoreditch diner. When it comes to going ‘beyond’, “some of the tapas style starters are worth trying too” (cauliflower cheese balls, fried chicken bites…)

“Top vegan food in town, courtesy of Club Mexicana” is to be found at this “cool” east Homerton hostelry: London’s first 100% vegan pub. Even those who feel it’s “hyped” and only “OK if you’re in the area” say “they must be doing something right as it’s packed”.

“Oh my! A meat-lovers’ feast awaits!” at these “carnivorous havens”, where “evidently very well-sourced produce is expertly cooked and served in great platters of meaty delight!” (“go when you are hungry!”). There are “superb-value steaks”, but it’s the “mouthwateringly scrumptious” chops that inspire more feedback. Soho and the City occupy “urban-chic” basements, whereas Shoreditch is above-ground and more “warehouse-y”. Top Menu Tip – “bargain basement prices on Butchers Block Monday, with £10 corkage if you bring your own wine!”

In oh-so-now Haggerston, this neighbourhood yearling – from chef Adam Hardiman (ex-St John and The Dartmouth Arms) – opened in November 2018, offering a seasonal, daily-changing menu. It is rated on the limited survey feedback received to date, but all of it is very upbeat, in keeping with newspaper reports and social media buzz about the place.

“Paradise for serious foodies” – “a street notorious for once being crime-ridden is now home to Hackney’s best-value dining experience: £39 for a seven-course tasting menu”, according to practically all reports on ex-Pidgin chef, Adolfo de Cecco’s “intimate-feeling” foodie venture. “Thoughtful food is excellently executed by a team with evident passion” and if “a few technical slip-ups can creep in, the charming, passionate service (often by the chefs themselves) more than makes up for this”.