The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell hustled a table for the first night of full trading at “the hottest ticket in London”, earning bragging rights as the first national critic into print on restaurateur Jeremy King’s multimillion-pound revival of a revered institution dating back to 1828.
It was everything he could have hoped for, both in culinary terms and – more importantly for William – as a symbolic and political statement: “a monumental f–k you to the Labour Government… a vehemently aggressive show of defiance in a time of relentless attacks on hospitality.”
His meal was “the most fabulous hoot”, “a welcome blast of good cheer”, and “a theatrical tour de force” of chefs in extravagant crumpled hats, of silver salvers and the famous roast beef trolley. The food might be a “mere aside”, but it was perfect: Carlingford oysters and a classic prawn cocktail followed by the roast beef-on-wheels – “two large slices carved by the chef, pink and tender with melting fat” for “a vast Sunday lunch on a Tuesday night”.
William Sitwell - 2026-03-15