Covent Garden, American Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: In less than 20 years, Danny Meyer has transformed his New York City hot-dog cart into a global fast-food brand giant with eight outlets in London – including a Covent Garden flagship that was revamped earlier this year. Ratings remain remarkably solid for “a chain that does what it’s supposed to do”.

“BBQ, live music, decent cocktails and craft beer” channel the spirit of the American South at this “buzzy”, long-running spot in Chelsea and its more recent spin-offs in Covent Garden and Canary Wharf. The food is “more about quantity than quality”, although the “great-value lunch deals” are popular: “£10 meat taster is unbeatable”.

“Like being in an old fashioned Parisian brasserie”, this big venue, “centrally located by Covent Garden Piazza”, provides a “hectic but impressive” backdrop to a meal. Many reporters feel “it has a whole lot going for it”, but even they often acknowledge either “seriously poor” cooking, or the trade-offs that a visit entails: “Yes it’s on the pricey side and the food is average really, but it’s still a tradition that we enjoy.”

The 2021 opening of a London branch of New York’s hip NoMad hotel brought a “wonderful transformation” of Covent Garden’s Bow Street Magistrates’ Court “into a bright, airy venue with lots of choice” for eating and drinking. Its “fab main dining room”, ‘The Atrium’, is a three-storey-high glass-ceilinged space with an extra-glam atmosphere, although “sometimes the food doesn’t match the setting”, being merely “OK, but no more than that”. The appointment of Lancashire-born chef Michael Yates, formerly of Northcote and Holland’s famous Oud Sluis, may lift its game.

The “Manhattan-esque atmosphere” is the perennial attraction of this Theatreland favourite (sibling to a famous NYC brasserie near Times Square), which retains the retro charm of a 1970s period piece, even though it was completely rebuilt on a new site just around the corner from the original one just four years ago. “Despite the luvvie buzz, the American food is decidedly second rate (though the off-menu burger is fine)”. “Prices are not unreasonable for the location”, however, and “the youthful staff do their best”.

This stunning Covent Garden mansion (once a high-class brothel) is named for the son of one of Thatcher’s cabinet ministers, who launched it in its current guise as a grand American restaurant; and for about a decade it was the height of fashion. It retains a “great atmosphere” – and also, something of a following for business, brunch and its martini bar. But, given its location and dramatic interior, it attracts remarkably little feedback these days.

Despite a fine NYC pedigree; a selection of top-quality imported USDA steaks; and a ‘prestige’ location, at the foot of the Adelphi (just off the Strand), this US steakhouse has never made waves in the capital. When it does, it’s often for the wrong reasons, with too many complaints either that it’s “overpriced” or “very disappointing”.