Evening Standard
David Ellis revisited a 40-year-old classic French restaurant he has known since his teenage years and still relies on as a refuge, sanctuary or asylum – “depending on the crisis”. Then he dropped the bombshell that this is his last review for the Standard, after just 19 months in post as restaurant critic.
Le Garrick’s menu is based around “a routine that plays as well now as when onions were first sweated to caramel in the 1700s”, with beef bourguignon that is “the sort of thing roadside places used to do in France, though they have long since shut”. The pre- and post-theatre offer is excellent value at £22 for 2 courses, £26 for 3, for things like onion soup and tarte au citron, although David stressed: “it would be wrong to suggest this is execution on the level of Paulette in Maida Vale or Henry Harris’s Bouchon Racine”.
“It’s the end of my beginning,” he concluded. “Pretentious until the end. Thanks for reading.”
David Ellis - 2026-05-17