The Observer
Kieran Morris had both his taste buds and his mind blown at the capital’s other high-end Indian opening, this one from Dubai-based chef Himanshu Saini, which he hailed as an “extraordinary restaurant [that] puts the title ‘London’s best Indian’ laughably out of reach for the foreseeable future.”
Kieran’s first bite, “a popping-candy pani puri full of pickled pineapple (repeat five times)… lit up my senses like nothing I’d ever experienced, gastronomic or otherwise.” It was followed by mushroom chai, genre-bending chickpea and strawberry chaat with yoghurt ice-cream, tortellini stuffed with gorgonzola dolce on a bed of smoked butter chicken and a rich lamb chop, all of which continued the good work.
“Finally, the didactic showpiece at the heart of Trèsind’s approach to cuisine: the khichdi of India, in which 21 items are mixed, trolleyside, into a humble dal-and-rice porridge… The end result was soothing but mind-bendingly complex, like eating the Bhagavad Gita by the spoonful.”
Kieran Morris - 2026-06-14
