Harden's survey result
“A wide range of both grass-fed and grain-fed steaks from around the globe” helps fully satisfy the cravings of “those who like a good steak meal and decent bottle of red” at this “very solid” group of NYC-style steak-houses, which – amongst the more expensive multiples – remains the “best in town”. “It’s not a cheap option by any means, but great for a business lunch or blow-out in the evening”.
“Every cut is served exactly the way it should be” at these testosterone-heavy, NYC-style steak-houses, which – amongst the multiples (including Hawksmoor) – serve “the best steak in London full stop”, and are naturally “ideal for business”. “Staff are personable which keeps the atmosphere buzzing”, and “while they are far from cheap, the meat is top quality, ranging from UK, US and further afield; matched with an excellent, varied wine list, with US bottles very well represented”.
“For a red meat blow out” – especially “if you want a steak for a serious business lunch” – these “NYC-style”, “testosterone-charged” steakhouses fully fit the bill (and outscored rivals Hawksmoor in this year’s survey). “The choice of cuts – be they US, Scottish, or more ‘exotic’ make them a stand-out”, with “a good supporting cast of sides”, and “well-matched wines”. Naturally “you pay for the privilege”.
“Carnivore heaven” – these “macho” haunts are “the best of the upmarket steak chains” (significantly out-gunning Hawksmoor this year), and “superb for old-school business lunches”. The steaks of course are “not cheap”, but “huge”, “cooked to perfection”, and served with “great truffle chips”. Other attractions include the “interesting specials board with rare cuts”, plus “excellent wines at fair mark-ups”.
Offshoot of a Muscovite chain, this steakhouse just off Regent Street offers pretty good food in an ambience rather akin to an upmarket burger bar.
Rightly or wrongly, when you hear that somewhere's owned by the Russians, you tend to assume that there's going to be something sinister about it. Big disappointment. This particular Mayfair steakhouse is quite a jolly sort of place, rather like an upmarket burger bar, with notably friendly service (and no customer carrying violin cases, even of the metaphorical sort).
In fact, we liked the place a whole lot better than we expected. A salmon carpaccio to start, for example, was very tasty, and a Jerusalem Artichoke soup was pretty good too. Chips, beans (green) and a peanut butter parfait were also all highly regarded. Even wines - we had a nice big Montepulciano - came in a decent range, and not all at excessive prices.
What were least persuaded about, curiously, was the steak (currently much-aged Aussie/US, but with native offerings on the way, apparently). One offering - cooked, for a guest, well done - was deemed a great success, but the medium rare fillet mignon we had was quite a letdown, with no real crust.
So, all-in-all, a slighly mixed report. But if you want to check the place out for yourself, this handily-sited spot offers very reasonably-priced set lunch menus, and it is - seasonal tip - just two minutes' walk from Hamley's.
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Last orders: 11 pm