Harden's survey result
“Ideal for a business lunch” – D&D London’s “large” and posh Italian (overseen by Francesco Mazzei) is widely seen as “a safe bet”, with its combination of “well-spread-out tables”, “rather formal service” and “a reliable, good quality of food”. The flipside of this assessment, however, is that it can also seem “very Mayfair but nothing special” and “overpriced for what it delivers”.
“When you need quiet to have a good business conversation”, this “very comfortable and well-spaced” Mayfair Italian, with its “very refined Calabrian cucina”, “very smart” decor and “particularly professional” service is just the ticket. All this comes at a price naturally, and while the overall offer escapes any serious criticisms, and draws a good degree of praise, the overall verdict value-wise is really quite muted, especially measured by Francesco Mazzei’s involvement and its much-publicised revamp two years ago.
Fans do say D&D London’s “upmarket” expense-accounter favourite in Mayfair is “much-improved” since it was re-launched in late 2015 with Francesco Mazzei at the stoves. But his arrival has done little to shake the overall consensus on this “so comfortable” but “somewhat impersonal” Italian: “unexciting and pricey”.
Ex L’Anima chef, Francesco Mazzei is – in something of a coup for D&D London – to relaunch this grand, spacious and perennially promising-but-under-performing Mayfair Italian in early November 2015; it’s closed till then for a major refit – this should be one to watch.
Sartoria Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Old style restaurant vibe - you can just have a coffee in the front but the dining room is elegant and spacious. The set lunch is generous and a high standard for the price"
|Wine per bottle||£40.00|
In Savile Row of all places, it seems fair to judge by appearances. At this Conran group Italian, the multi-various staff uniforms suggest that it requires a hierarchy of seven grades of operative to bring you lunch. It may therefore fairly be claimed as an organisational triumph that the service works at all. Unsurprisingly, however, there is no proper rhythm to the performance, and - with the staff's movements apparently choreographed by some unseen Fat Controller - no feeling that anyone visible is really in charge of your table.
Anonymity similarly characterises the interior of this Mayfair corner site, which cannot shake off the feeling of a smart, and quite large, hotel brasserie. Conran design - it has long seemed to us - is essentially a one-trick pony. As far back as 1991, our guide noted that the décor of the then-new Pont de la Tour would 'hold few surprises' for those who have been to Bibendum. Visits to subsequent Conran restaurants have also frequently given us that feeling of déjÃ -vu all over again. This one is no exception, with a perfunctory tailoring theme doing nothing to relieve a sense of safe modern tedium.
The food, however - now presided over by ex-Refettorio chef Pasquale Amico - was sometimes pretty good on our visit, and, by local standards, not greedily priced. Impressive choices included a pasta dish, a chocolate pudding and a textbook espresso. On the downside were dull bread and a main course that reminded me of what, at college, they used to call Beef Olive. This grey and under-seasoned little number, however, was made with pork, and came - as if to emphasise its beige-y blandness - dressed only with boiled potatoes.
The wine list, almost all Italian, offers limited choice under £25 a bottle, but that does nothing to dent its popularity with its almost exclusively business clientele.
20 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PR
|Number of Diners:|
|Monday||7 pm-10 pm|
|Tuesday||7 pm-10 pm|
|Wednesday||7 pm-10 pm|
|Thursday||7 pm-10 pm|
|Friday||7 pm-10 pm|
|Saturday||11 am-10:30 pm|