The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell, self-styled scourge of veganism, hater of tasting menus, who never dines out solo and avoids restaurants on Valentine’s Day, perched alone at the counter of Kirk Howarth’s newly Michelin starred vegan gaff on February 14 to plough through a multi-course taster.
And – you guessed it – he thoroughly enjoyed a “rich experience of fabulous charm and great endeavour”, with a number of culinary miracles including “sourdough with the texture and flavour of the finest croissant, a mini lasagne with a rich umami filling of mung and urad beans, and a wonderful little rice pudding ice cream”.
“Who cares that it’s vegan when it’s just clever, brilliant fun? And, unlike with most tasting menus, I leave feeling light of tummy and with room for dinner.” But William couldn’t leave the subject without a little carnivore’s kicker: “Which, back home for my Val’s Day date with my beloved wife, will be a ribeye and chips.”
William Sitwell - 2025-02-16
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