Harden's says
Open summer 2023, former Fenn head chef Joe Laker's debut project is a 16-seater chef's table with a focus on less familiar British produce, presented in a minimalist style. The venue has its own separate cocktail bar, Lowcountry, featuring whiskeys from the Georgia to North Carolina coast under Savannah-born mixologist Ryan Sheehan.
Harden's survey result
Summary
Joe Laker’s 16-seater north of Old Street has won attention since it opened three years ago – for example it was in Harden’s 2024 Top 100 Best UK Restaurants – but still perhaps doesn’t make the waves that its level of excellence deserves: in particular, inexplicably it has yet to be granted its Michelin star. Served at a curved counter looking onto the kitchen: the main event is a nine-course tasting menu price at £145 per person (with a six-course menu at lunch £70 per person). In his December 2024 review, David Ellis of The Standard was upbeat although of the converted pub surroundings he queried “if this was a dream site or a case of financial compromise”. Still, no quibbles about the cuisine: “seasonal, sustainable and British, the usual stuff. But goodness, is it well done”.
Summary
“A wonderful curation of British produce and informative service” – Joe Laker’s 16-seat two-year-old in Smithfield offers “some of the best counter dining in London” according to its small but passionate fan club. In the nondescript streets north of Old Street roundabout, an old corner pub has been transformed with a big open kitchen behind a marble counter. “Faultless course after course are all served with the care and attention they deserve, with thoughtful wine pairings that further elevate the experience” (the nine-course tasting menu is currently £120 per person). More than one reporter tips it as “a restaurant to watch” that’s “heading for a Michelin star”.
Summary
Opened in summer 2023, former Fenn head chef Joe Laker’s debut project is a 16-seater chef’s table with a focus on less familiar British produce, presented in a minimalist style. There’s a touch of the TARDIS to it – on the outside, it looks like a bog-standard old corner pub; on the inside, it transforms into an open kitchen surrounded by a slick dining counter made from green marble. The venue has its own separate cocktail bar, Lowcountry, featuring whiskeys from the Georgia to North Carolina coast under Savannah-born mixologist Ryan Sheehan. Lowcountry also has a menu of southern US small plates such as shrimps and grits prawn toast. Top Menu Tip – “the custard tarts with fennel seeds are a real show-stopper”.
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Counter 71?
71 Nile Street, London, N1 7RD
Restaurant details
Counter 71 Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Excellent "
"Excellent all round "
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £40.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £3.50 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 15.00% |
71 Nile Street, London, N1 7RD
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | CLOSED |
| Wednesday | 6:30 pm‑12 am |
| Thursday | 6:30 pm‑12 am |
| Friday | 12:30 pm‑4 pm, 6:30 pm‑12 am |
| Saturday | 12:30 pm‑4 pm, 6:30 pm‑12 am |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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