Kensington, Japanese Restaurant Guide

Backstreet sushi restaurant in High Street Kensington of high ambition which typically elicits high praise, but which curiously inspired practically no feedback this year. By contrast its South Kensington spin-off, which occupies a characterful landmark (formerly Brompton Library) is usually ignored, but inspired a number of reports, mostly adulatory regarding its “exceptionally good” (if pricey) cuisine: “the chef asked us if we wanted him to do something special, he did, and it was the best sushi we have ever had”.

“Would have expected a lot more from a Japanese restaurant within Japan House” is too often the verdict on this venue within the Japanese Government’s year-old showcase for all things Nipponese, which occupies Kensington’s former Derry & Toms department store. The place is not without advocates of its “attractive” design and “beautiful presentation” but even fans acknowledge it’s “on the expensive side” and some critics report really bad trips with “overly complex and heavy”, or even “shockingly bad” dishes.

“Incredibly filling bowls of ramen” – backed up by “interesting menus of delicious food, served quickly with a smile” – attract an enthusiastic crowd to this small chain of hip Japanese-style fast-food bars, although feedback supports the view that “the original in Soho is by far the best”. The founder, Aussie-born, Nobu-trained chef Ross Shonhan, has spun off a series of “Asian-fusion” concepts – Flesh & Buns, Shack-Fuyu and his latest, Poke-Don.