The Times
Jay Rayner discovered the solution to the problem of where to eat before a concert at the Royal Albert Hall “hiding in plain sight” a nine-minute walk away: an old-school Italian that’s a “living landmark from London’s first postwar restaurant wave”, run today by Marco Molino, son of its late founder, Mario.
The ground floor and upstairs dining rooms are “thrillingly kitsch” – “swooningly mad and, for being so, utterly delightful” – with their painting of Princess Diana (who used to sneak in from Kensington Palace to share pizza with the young princes), religious icons (Buddha, a Thai goddess and Jesus), portraits of Saudi Arabian kings, weirdly ornate ham chiller cabinet and “Poundshop Eden Project” of faux foliage around the windows.
“Most importantly the food is exactly what you want it to be,” enthused Jay, whose highlights included perfect and good-value pasta, “thumb-thick prawns” and tiramisu “so light it can practically be inhaled”.
Jay Rayner - 2025-04-20
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