Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 21 April 2019. Happy Easter! Xier, London W1 Grace Dent for The Guardian is always “questioning the entire point of modern haute cuisine” – especially lengthy tasting menus “often done badly: too pompous, too many petals, too few carbs, not a lot of […]

Continue reading


Fishmarket, Edinburgh When in Edinburgh Jay Rayner for The Observer always heads to Ondine, and its “pitch-perfect seafood”; you can imagine how delighted he was to discover a sibling restaurant, “a collaboration between Ondine chef Roy Brett and his long-time suppliers Welch Fishmongers,” on the docks at Newhaven. At Fishmarket there’s a “classic metal takeaway counter” […]

Continue reading


Bodega Rita’s, the Coal Drops Yard sandwich shop and deli set up by Rita’s founders Missy Flynn and Gabriel Pryce, is to launch a guest series alongside some of London’s better-known chefs. Bodega opened at the new Coal Drops Yard development in December, and serves New York-style sandwiches, pastries, and lighter dishes. Creations include pork […]

Continue reading


Foxlow Soho, one of Hawksmoor Group’s relaxed, neighbourhood-style restaurants, is to close. The site will shutter on April 18, Big Hospitality reported. An email to customers said “the restaurant has been very successful in many ways… [but] we recently got a great unsolicited offer for the site and we decided to accept it… “We’re now […]

Continue reading