City, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“OK I guess, but could be so much better” is an increasingly common view on this once-groundbreaking chain, where the feeling that “it seems to have gone off a bit” is most prevalent at the well-known Granary Square branch, which risks becoming “a cheerless, so-so, fast-turnaround experience”. At its best, though – mostly to be found at the EC1 original, with its “great outside seating area and very relaxed atmosphere” – the group remains popular for its “innovative and delicious breakfasts”: “great sharing plates” and “something for everyone” (which includes “a good set of vegan and vegetarian alternatives”).

“Very useful for City business lunches” – former financier, Soren Jessen’s “buzzy, well-spaced” converted banking hall, near Bank station, has been a well-known linchpin of expense accounter life in the Square Mile for the last two decades (“you see everyone if you lunch here”), with the option of eating in the less formal brasserie or more formal restaurant, depending on how overtly you are wooing the client. The “reliable” menu “is a mix of classics, holding something for everyone. They understand that business is business and staff know how to handle service to accommodate that”.

Yet another option for eating at The Ned! This time, the colossal hipster hotel near Bank has added a new basement bar and entertainment space, complete with regular live music. The food is more than just bar bites though – Lobster Thermidor anyone?

This large bar-restaurant, near the Guildhall, isn’t going to win any culinary awards, but is a very versatile venue that’s conveniently located: “a good fallback in the City for decent if unspectacular food and a nice atmosphere. The staff are friendly and it’s turned into our office standby”.

If it were not for Gordon Ramsay’s involvement, we would likely ignore this big warehousey venue, in a large mall next to St Paul’s. If you work in one of the local money factories and are fairly cost-insensitive, its interior is agreeable and it suits less formal business entertaining (or even a family meal); but as ever, it achieves very limited and mixed feedback overall. Still, the GR Holdings crew must think the idea’s got legs, as they have created a sub-brand – Bread Street Café – first opening Ealing in late 2021 and aimed at relaxed, all-day family dining.

This modern take on the wine bar “sets the benchmark for an imaginative, indeed educational, wine list” – with “constantly surprising selections from far-flung places alongside the old-world classics”. There are “good choices by the glass, though prices can start quickly to move upwards”, and the “food is generally surprisingly good, with good-value set-lunch options”. The ultra-handily situated King’s Cross branch draws some flak for being “just too popular”, while branches in the City, Faringdon, Marylebone and Chiswick all have their fans. A new branch is scheduled to open by Borough Market in late 2021.

Fortnum’s hold the catering and bar concession for the spectacular City courtyard of the Royal Exchange, where they provide luxury all-day snacking, sipping and dining (start the day with “the best-ever porridge with whisky and cream!”). It must be the just about the only restaurant in London to provide ‘personal shopping advice’ to diners, guiding them round the glossy shops that have replaced traders in the surrounding exchange.

Hidden away by the Wobbly Bridge directly opposite Tate Modern, this 12-year-old venture is “the place to go if you want to explore South African wine alongside some of the best steaks in the City”. It’s also a place were “lunchtimes can – and often do – stretch into dinner”, under the expert guidance of “host and owner Neleen Strauss, who’s bonkers, in a great way” (she personally presented Boris Johnson as mayor of London with a bill for £80,000 to cover her losses during the London Olympics!).

Moments from the Bank of England, this converted banking hall is nowadays a well-established City amenity, known for its “consistently good food”, which is served from breakfast on.

“Amazing views” from the 37th floor of the Walkie Talkie Tower are backed up by “delicious and beautiful food” from chef Michael Carr at this “well-presented” City destination. Upmarket caterers Rhubarb have worked commendably hard to ensure the venue offers more than just a “great location”.

Opened in October 2022, from the Incipio Group, a "destination bar" plus drinking and dining spaces, two private dining rooms and a main restaurant, all underground beneath the vaults of The Royal Exchange.