The Times
Jay Rayner ascended to the 60th floor of 22 Bishopsgate to sample the new offshoot of Gordon Ramsay’s flagship, whose £250 menu – just £10 less than the Prestige menu at the mothership in Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea – raised “huge expectations”. Alas, they were not met in a glossy glass box of a room devoid of personality or joy – and with views over Essex.
“The best that can be said of the experience is that achieves a certain adequacy,” Jay harrumphed. Some dishes were very good (a lovely warm gougère filled with “the riotous pong of Tunworth cheese”; a well-roasted piece of duck breast) while some were “actively poor” (shellfish ravioli in overworked pasta with an acidic sauce “that could shine up cutlery”; roasted shellfish and truffle consommé that “tastes merely of indistinct meatiness”).
He also complained that one of the toilet cubicles (shared with Lucky Cat brasserie next door) had a broken lock. “A small thing, perhaps, but not when dinner for two can easily cost upwards of £750. Ramsay has made much of the Bishopsgate project costing £20mn and of him needing ‘balls of steel’ to complete it; meanwhile, courtesy of a broken door, mine risk being on display.”
Jay Rayner - 2026-03-22
