City, International Restaurant Guide

“Ranks with the best beef I’ve ever had in London” is typical of the high praise earned by this smart three-year-old. “Mind you, it is right next to Smithfield” – a fact reflected in its straight-to-the-point menu – “and the maître d’ knows just the right wine to wash it down with”. It occupies an architectural gem of a townhouse once home to Sir John Betjeman.

This ancient cellar near Tower Hill has a “brilliant selection of wines at retail prices”, accompanied by charcuterie and cheeses – “basically drinks-party food, but none the worse for that”. With its “highly knowledgeable staff”, it’s a great place for oenophiles to while away an hour or two (if not in huge comfort, given the not-particularly-comfortable seating).

2019 Review: “In the magnificent surroundings of the Lutyens-designed banking hall of the old Midland Bank building”, this 3,000 square metre food hall houses seven different restaurants each with about 100 covers. It’s easy to feel lost in such a big interior though and these spaces are actually “not that ambient”, but are nonetheless very handy for a City rendezvous with OK fare. The top tips are Kaia (Asian-Pacific: “perfect for a quick lunch time meeting”); Malibu Kitchen (Californian: “some unusual and excellent brunch choices”); and Zobler’s (‘NYC’-Jewish: “comfort food that’s easy to eat”). Millie’s Lounge (British) also rates mention. Less so Cecconi’s, except on business. In each case, go with realistic expectations – otherwise you may sense “too much hype”.

A third branch of this chain of casual Hawaiian joints opens in Bloomberg's new City HQ, catering to London’s latest food craving: poké (raw fish).