City, French Restaurant Guide

“Perfect for a slick business lunch” – “if the weather permits get an outside table” at this D&D London operation on the top floor of No 1 Poultry, where you eat just a minute’s walk from the Bank of England amidst leafy roof terraces. Despite the upheavals at its owning group (sold to new private equity owners in October 2023) it put in a stronger-than-ever performance this year. True, “it’s best when the meal is not at your own expense”, but perennial complaints were absent this year. Instead, “nothing but praise for the lovely staff and excellent kitchen”; and for the “consistently good” modern French cuisine: “I’ve taken numerous guests – all very happy!”

“Still the best cheap steak in London” for fans, despite growing competition – these “bustling” and “tightly packed” Paris-based ventures thrive on an “unchanged formula (steak + salad + frites + secret sauce + French staff outfits + bustle)” with branches in Marylebone and the City, whose permanent queues testify to their winning style. “A bit bish, bash, bosh but great fun”, they “do what it says on the tin, without grandstanding or ludicrous pricing (are you watching Hawksmoor?)”.

“A City Institution!” – Looking down onto Leadenhall Market from the eves of the old Victorian structure (which it has inhabited since the 1980s), this traditional brasserie is an excellent all-rounder by the standards of Square Mile lunch spots. The classic French fare is not going to distract from your lunch, but prices are sufficiently reasonable as to make this a bill that can be paid, if necessary, from your ‘personal account’.

2021 Review: “Interesting and very edible food in ‘tapas mode’”, at “very reasonable prices”, is on offer at this contemporary Franco-Hispanic bistro in Borough Market. “Charming service” from “efficient and friendly staff” adds to its attractions – along with “plenty of outdoor tables” for summer scoffing.

Evens Lopez has been at the stoves since June 2022 at this five-star hotel near the Tower of London. Run from afar by Anne-Sophie Pic – France’s most decorated female chef – it has held two Michelin stars for many years, yet has a fairly low profile largely due to its City-fringe location, in the monumental former HQ of the Port of London Authority (which, apparently, also served as the venue for the inaugural meeting of the United Nations General Assembly in 1946!). A fair number in our annual diners poll who do make the trip say the dining room is a “wonderful” environment with modern French cuisine that’s “just superb”, from a selection of menus starting at £145 per person. What’s encouraging is that criticism of the place is most notable by its absence.

Now in its 40th year, this “charming, family-run brasserie”, “hidden away near Smithfield Market”, is “about as close as you’ll get to France” without leaving Blighty. With a “great atmosphere, but still quiet enough to be able to chat”, it’s “a great place to seal a business deal” – but equally “French is always best for romance!”. In the evenings, “regular live music adds to the relaxed atmosphere”.

2022 Review: “The duck burger is sublime and the triple-cooked duck-fat chips are moreish” at this offshoot of nearby Club Gascon, which offers a more informal venue for simpler but similar cuisine from SW France. We’ve rated it on the basis of its consistent pre-pandemic performance, as it remains closed as of September 2021 while the team waits for folks to return to their offices around Smithfield.

“Amazing fine dining with Korean flavours running through each dish creates a real joy for the taste buds” at Woongchul Park & Bomee Ki’s passion project in a street in the shadow of The Shard. For foodies, it’s a must-visit, with a “restrained, unshowy and a pleasing menu” mixing classic French culinary techniques with inspirations from their home country; and all “at a reasonable price for this level of cooking and quality of ingredients”. Quality wines come from Keeling Andrew (associated with Noble Rot) although “more cheaper labels might encourage the topers amongst us to a bigger spend”. Service is “amazing”; and the neutral, 28-cover space is super-tasteful (but maybe not one for thrill seekers).

“Galvin restaurants always deliver”, say fans – but even so it is difficult to avoid a sense of missed opportunity with this bistro next door to the brothers’ flagship, La Chapelle. All reports rate it acceptably well, and no disasters are reported, but amidst some “fabulous” accounts, there are also those with elements that are “average” or “slightly disappointing”.

“A stunning venue with top-notch Gallic-inspired cuisine”: the Galvin Bros’ “beautiful” operation has all the elements for a “memorable experience” and – though its City-fringe location by Spitalfields Market makes it a huge hit for expense-accounters (“when you want to impress with a very elegant meal”), it’s also a “romantic favourite for the most special occasions”. Often mistaken for a converted chapel, the “dream location” of its ecclesiastical-style space was actually constructed to house a late-Victorian girls’ school, and was superbly stylishly converted by the Galvins in 2009. “Despite the striking surroundings, the staff manage to make it feel relatively informal”: “they are attentive but give you space and time”. And the food? “first class”, “precise French cuisine” that’s fully priced of course, but few begrudged the bill this year. Top Menu Tip – “Always try the magnificent Crab Lasagne: to die for!”

“It was very sad when the Bleeding Heart restaurant never reopened” – a victim of Covid-19 – “but the adjoining bistro” in a Dickensian yard “hidden around the back of Hatton Garden” is “still going strong” under its long-term owners Robert & Robyn Wilson (who established the business in 1983). “In a convenient location between the City and the West End”, the venue has always been popular amongst expense-accounters and “minimal intervention from the efficient service means it’s a great choice for a business lunch” and always feels “busy and buzzy”. The “reliable, classic French bistro cuisine provides something on the menu for all tastes” and “is consistently of a high standard”; and while the cellar is not quite as deep as when the restaurant was in full swing, there remains “a fairly comprehensive wine list”. Top Tip – in summer, “the really lovely terrace is an oasis in this busy part of London”.