City, French Restaurant Guide

The marvellous backdrop of the Royal Exchange’s internal courtyard sets the tone at this business-friendly mezzanine, “whose good acoustic means you don’t have to bellow, and whose well-spaced tables mean you needn’t fear being overhead”. A D&D London operation, its food wins consistently solid ratings.

For an informal business bite (including a “top quality breakfast”) it’s worth remembering the café in the “very handsome” covered courtyard of this Victorian pile, right at the heart of the City of London.

“Superb cooking is in evidence” at ex-Ledbury chef, James Cochran’s newcomer, a couple of minutes from Liverpool Street, where his British small plates are “the stuff of dreams” and “at prices seldom seen for food of this quality in the City”. There are negatives – too often “it is let down by very amateur service”, and “the decor is not terribly inspiring”, but all-in-all it’s still highly recommended. In July 2017, he announced a second 60-seater at Angel Central.

“Whisking up in a lift and having it open onto a gorgeous rooftop” helps set up good vibes – especially for expense-accounters – at D&D London’s well-known landmark, “in the heart of the City” (right by Bank). “You are paying for the view” to some extent, but its current culinary performance is “sound – perfectly OK without being exceptional”.

“You know what you are getting” at this Gallic steakhouse chain whose “unique formula” delivers “excellence through simplicity” – the only menu option is “tasty” steak-frites (with unlimited seconds), garnished with their “to-die-for secret sauce”.

What was ‘Cellar Gascon’ next to Club Gascon has recently rebranded and re-launched with a more modish new look, serving Gascon ‘Frapas’ (French tapas) alongside ‘hand-crafted’ cocktails.