St James's, Italian Restaurant Guide

Angela Hartnett’s chain continues to split opinion in our annual diners survey. To their very many fans, these comfortable and well-located Italians (in Covent Garden, St James’s, and now also in Borough) are a real “favourite” thanks to their “buzzy” atmosphere, staff who are “always friendly and helpful” and their “wonderful” trattoria food (“gutsy peasant-type dishes, including good pasta”). Even fans, though, can feel that “prices are only just about OK for the quality” and harsher sceptics just feel they “trade on the Murano name” with a formula that’s just too “unimaginative”.

This “good-value classic Italian in the heart of St James’s” gets “extremely busy at lunchtime” – which is not surprising, given that a two-course lunch costs less than £20. But it’s more than just a cheap option: “the food is surprisingly tasty and well-presented – much better than we could have expected”.

An archetypal “hidden gem” set “in tiny Crown Passage” – this “lovely, little, family-run Italian in the heart of St James’s” has served “authentic” Calabrian-based dishes for almost 30 years – at “great value” too, considering the area. Regulars mourned the death of its owner, Giacomo Bonavita, in 2020, but “the family have really stepped up – the food is better than ever and they’re super-generous with the truffle!” “The sisters run a tight ship, providing a good range of food with friendly service”.

“A table at the bar is always fun” at the original Cecconi’s – a sophisticated Italian brasserie, tucked away off Bond Street, which in particular is brunch central – “a comfortable place to have your coffee, eggs and Sunday Times… and to people-watch”. As ever here, though, it can all seem too pricey: a case of “style over substance”, or somewhere that’s “fine… but just fine”. And then there’s the question of judging the less commented-on brand extensions embarked on by owners Soho House. None of them inspire a huge volume of feedback but it’s all good, be it for the outlet at the City’s Ned Hotel, the “always enjoyable” neighbourhood spot in Shoreditch, or the Soho pizzeria (“always a great buzz”).

Navigate through the pan-Asian section of Russian restaurateur Arkady Novikov’s ultra-luxe Mayfair scene, and you find an elegant if slightly incongruous classic Italian dining room at the rear. Key themes that emerge in survey feedback: it’s notably “overpriced”; the food’s not bad; and for a business encounter, it’s worth considering.

Originally set to open in summer 2020, this Tuscany-via-Dubai import – part of an international group – set a new record for rent on its new Mayfair home: the 11,000 square foot, two-floor site vacated by Nobu Berkeley (RIP) with 220 covers. Finally open now from September 2021, it’s one of a number of very high-end Italians to have opened in Mayfair in recent years: here, with produce and wine from the 700-acre Tuscan estate of the same name.

“Up-market (loud) Italian” in a prime Mayfair location with swish styling and and a large menu incorporating relatively affordable pizzas as well as more substantial classic dishes. The experience is generally well-rated but, valuewise, prices can seem to verge on the “stratospheric” for what is delivered.

“For a quick Italian meal in the West End”, you will struggle to better this award-winning duo of “beautiful” pasta-bars, off Trafalgar Square and in Soho’s Golden Square, where the “gorgeous fresh pasta” is notably “excellent value”. To be fair, the odd reporter does feel the cooking is “serviceable rather than spectacular”, but the vast majority say the dishes are “to die for”. “Friendly staff get high marks” too, as does the “fantastic buzz”.

“A great, traditional Italian with real style”, whose name references its location, amongst London’s most famous tailors, and whose “well-spaced tables” help make it a “discreet and useful Mayfair location” for business lunches hosted by those wearing the bespoke products of its neighbours. Owned by D&D London, the kitchen is run by ex-Anima chef Francesco Mazzei, and it has put in a very solid performance of late. “I go when I want a special treat – I don’t eat meat, but I’ll always find a beautiful and flavourful vegetable-based dish or risotto, and the fish is excellent.” There’s a strong Italian wine list, where – for example – “you can usually find a Marche or Umbrian bottle of good vintage that doesn’t appear on anyone else’s list”.

This Italian indie in Soho is entering its tenth year, and hides a large basement bar (boasting a wide range of vermouths) behind a small exterior. Feedback was a bit up-and-down this year – some former fans found blips in service and a poor ambience, while others continue to laud its “very good” Italian food and say a visit is “always fun”.

“Absolutely oozing with regional Italian flavours” – the “exceptional”, “gutsy” small plates at Jacob Kenedy’s “perennial favourite” near Piccadilly Circus earn it a ranking in London’s Top 40 most-mentioned restaurants. His menu remains “very innovative”, with many offbeat dishes and “novel takes” on more familiar ones. (“You really can come here and slowly explore the entire wonder of Italian cuisine, from Piedmont to Sicily!”). “Really superb value too for such a central Theatreland location” including “a top Italian wine list, with many bargains”. “Chic”, yet quite tightly packed, many regulars’ favourite perch is by the open kitchen: “a stool at the chef’s counter is my happy place!”. (“Excellent home delivery boxes” also feature in many reports).

2021 Review: Now over ten years old, this Venetian/Mediterranean chain has suffered a drip-feed of branch closures, with only two now trading: Soho and Chelsea. And in August 2020 it parted ways with its co-founder Russell Norman. Fans do still applaud the duo’s “very convivial and fun” formula, but the groups woes have stemmed from Venetian small plates that are often “no better than fine”, and at worst “uncared for” or “very mediocre”. Perhaps it will now finally turn a corner?

This “lovely little” spot with an “atmospheric terrace” off Carnaby Street has a strong reputation for its interesting combination of Spanish and Italian tapas. Ratings have slipped since its sale by the Salt Yard Group a few years ago – it’s “not quite what it once was, having lost its edge among a sea of Spanish excellence – but not bad!”.

This grand Mayfair Italian serves “beautiful” Tuscan dishes and boasts “a top outdoor space” in the shape of a newly extended 50-seat terrace. It’s the first foray into London restaurant ownership by an ancient Florentine dynasty with a long record of doing business with England – the Frescobaldis provided banking services to Edwards I & II and wine to Henry VIII. The family currently owns 11 Italian wine estates, which feature prominently on the restaurant’s list. The downbeat view is that a meal here is “nice enough… but not if you’re paying for yourself!”