St James's, French Restaurant Guide

“Paris comes to St James’s” at this “beautiful and buzzy” two-year-old, which has been one of the more impressive arrivals of recent years (it opened in autumn 2020). “Proper, well-executed French-brasserie food” (snails, crab salad, roast chicken, veal, steak and chips…) – “such a relief after all of the faddy nonsense dominating the London restaurant scene” – is delivered by “first-rate” staff throughout the day, from breakfast onwards. And together with the “amazing” high-ceilinged interior, the overall combination makes for a superb “all-round experience”, if one “with prices to match the location”. Top Tips – “the best dessert trolley in London!” and a “fun” basement wine bar called Frank’s.

2022 Review: Below Maison François (see also), this amiable, new, no-bookings wine bar in St James’s mixes a nowadays-proven formula of unconventional wines with hearty Gallic small plates: charcuterie, pâté and so forth. Handy to know about in a pricey area.

“This beautiful and impressive dining room and outside terrace has a rich restaurant history” (most recently as Boulestin and L’Oranger), and its latest “pricey-but-good” incarnation is proving “a useful addition to St James’s”. “Solid and traditional” in style, it provides “accomplished French cooking and helpful service” in a luxurious interior that’s “very stylish and relaxed”. And come summer, “the courtyard is a destination” in itself.

“Asia meets France” at this Mayfair yearling from French TV chef Cyril Lignac, named after his Paris restaurant in St Germain des Prés. “There’s a large team of sushi chefs and the place has a lively, Parisian feel”, with “French desserts, which are superb” – as they should be, given that Lignac trained as a pâtissier. It’s no shock that the place is pricey, but fans say it’s worth it: “absolutely top class, can’t wait to return”.

“A real gem in the heart of Soho”, this little slice of Belle Époque Paris serves small plates of “proper bistro food in a proper bistro setting” – “not fancy, but delicious”. Founded by three French brothers and named after their mother, it celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.

2021 Review: An all-day brasserie-concept from luxury Mayfair restaurant Park Chinois: the 92-cover venue launched in July 2019, with chef Gennaro Vitto, who was previously a pastry chef at Park Chinois, at the stoves.

2022 Review: Following closure of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon and the death of the man himself, this Picadilly café is now one of two London ventures opened in late 2019 by the group he founded. It’s all very chic and continental, but you don’t come here for culinary adventure – but to buy or snack on everyday staples (lots of tempting patisserie and viennoiserie, lasagna, club sandwich, Caesar salad…).

“A unique feature in London’s dining scene” – this “incredible subterranean cathedral of Art Deco glamour and French classic cuisine” was created 10 years ago by Corbin & King in homage to the brasseries of Paris. It occupies a “vast” and “absolutely stunning Art Deco basement” (Grade I listed with “gilding, marble columns and red velvet seating”) and “what is so outstanding is to find a restaurant of this quality just a stone’s throw from Piccadilly Circus”. To be clear, the lengthy menu of brasserie staples “won’t surprise you” – the catering has always been “OK” at best, and the food score this year was beyond humdrum. But next to the “white tablecloths and terrific old-world atmosphere and buzz”; plus “formally attired” service that’s “efficient and charming”; then “the food is almost beside the point” and the availability of “some extremely cheap menus” underpins its “eyebrow-raisingly good value (so you can forgive it a lot)”. With the management changes within The Wolseley Hospitality Group just prior to our annual diners’ poll, many reporters feel “it’s sad to see the founders no longer involved” and continue to worry – “will its distinctive qualities be lost?” Top Tip – “try to go later in the evening when the band is playing for an authentic French vibe. Also pop into the Bar Americain for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail.”

With a menu inspired by the French Riviera, this spacious outfit in Golden Square “quickly became a firm favourite for business lunches”, despite the unfortunate timing of its launch in late 2019. Parisian patron Guillaume Depoix’s vision of the ‘perfect Soho brasserie’, it delivers “delicious French food done simply and well”, with a “great clubby feeling, especially when the DJ is there at weekends”.

With its marble bar and banquette seating, this gracious venue (which opened in late 2019) near Shepherd Market is the London flagship for the late Joel Robuchon’s global luxury restaurant chain (Robuchon International). It inspires curiously little feedback for its luxurious, rather safe, modern French cuisine (‘Le Burger’, £36; ‘La Sole Meunière’, £59), but all reports are uniformly upbeat. Top Tip – “good-value fixed lunch menu with generous courses”.

The Selby brothers’ “very snug little basement venue for counter-top fine dining” shows “levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”; with cooking that’s “consistently well-thought-out, imaginative and bold”. “Ultimately there can be a clash between the expectation of enjoying fine cuisine and fine wines, while being perched on a stool with people brushing past”, so “file this under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”.

“In an utterly fairytale setting full of glamour, you can’t help but feel a sense of occasion” on the “unbelievably OTT” top floor of this grand Mayfair palazzo: “from the entrance to the fine-dining experience, it makes for a fabulous date night!” But its “pocket-bursting prices” are a source of widespread complaint, and one or two reporters feel that its elevation by Michelin to its highest echelons was misjudged (“three stars! REALLY? Nowhere near”). While converts are “over the moon due to the stunning reality” of the “joyful intricacy of the cuisine” from a “wacky but delightful” menu designed (from afar) by Gallic superstar Pierre Gagnaire, others discern “a confusing medley of French fiddliness that feels rather outdated”. Service is “faultless” on most accounts, if “in the breathless French-formal style”. Top Tip – “best to go for lunch if you want value for money”.

You pay top dollar to eat quite literally inside an art installation in this room within Mourad Mazouz’s idiosyncratic Mayfair venue, where artist Yinka Shonibare’s pan-African vision replaced the former lurid pink-walled David Shrigley showcase in spring 2022. It makes for “great artefacts to look at”, while the food – either a lavish all-day ‘afternoon tea’ or dinner – is “very, very good”. “But my word it’s expensive” – even “unbelie overpriced” – is a repeated lament even from very enthusiastic reporters.

2019 Review: “Hope they can get their act together...” This year-old London outpost of a models-and-celebs hangout in Paris’s 1er arrondissement (where Kim and Kanye are apparently regulars) has failed to inspire much gastronomic excitement for its international comfort food since landing in Mayfair’s cute Shepherd Market.

2021 Review: In a Mayfair townhouse that was formerly the short-lived Babel House (RIP), this ‘contemporary bistro de luxe’ features a southern French menu from chef Thierry Laborde, and opened in mid-2019, too late for any survey feedback. In his early review, The Evening Standard’s David Sexton focused on its handsome design, variably realised and expensive cuisine, impressive wine list and bargain set lunch (£25 with wine).

2019 Review: For a taste of ‘la vie en rose’, head to this atmospheric Shepherd Market bolthole – “a reminder of bistros in small French towns years ago”. “The cooking is simple traditional French, with some depth of flavour”, while “the wine is very reasonably priced, especially for Mayfair”.

2019 Review: Quirky, French-run wine-bar (plus upstairs dining room) tucked away just off Carnaby Street, which has dropped on and off the foodie radar in recent years. Scores currently are well off their highs of a few years ago, but it’s still tipped for its wine list and reasonable selection of accompanying nibbles (which incorporate some fairly substantial options).

“Opposite Jason Atherton’s flagship in Pollen Street”, its “high-class and intimate” younger sibling is in a more straightforward bistro style, and offers “simple food done exceptionally well”. “Surroundings and service are warm” too, and “in summer you can eat outside on this pedestrianised street”.