St James's, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

Big, “stylish and atmospheric space” in St James’s – a 1920s ballroom rescued and revamped by the late Sir Terence Conran in 1993, and now run by D&D London – that’s one of the few places in London where you can make a splashy occasion of a meal with live music. Its modern British cuisine steers a middle ground nowadays – avoiding the brickbats of a number of years ago, but seldom igniting passionate praise.

“Thoroughly reliable, good fresh fish at sensible prices for London” justifies a trip to this trio of seafood bistros in some of the capital’s most expensive areas – Covent Garden, Marylebone and Swallow Street (just a step from Piccadilly Circus). The cooking may not be hugely exciting, but “they do pretty standard fish dishes very well” – “including excellent cod and chips”. Each branch has an in-store fishmonger, so you can pick up something extra to cook at home.

A “glamorous feel that befits the location in St James’s” – complete with white marble from mountains near Athens! – infuses this “buzzy” and “noisy” London outpost of Costas Spiladis’s ritzily international Greek seafood chain. The “nosebleed prices for its delicious fresh fish” do nothing to deter the crowd – “it’s a big restaurant, but whenever I go there isn’t an empty table”. The centrepiece is a counter display of “super fish” – “perfect for the choosing side of things with people who know what they’re talking about”. Top Tip: “the lunchtime menu is a real bargain”.

“Up-market (loud) Italian” in a prime Mayfair location with swish styling and and a large menu incorporating relatively affordable pizzas as well as more substantial classic dishes. The experience is generally well-rated but, valuewise, prices can seem to verge on the “stratospheric” for what is delivered.

“Like stepping into the sort of reality TV series where people apply tons of make-up and not so many clothes”, Richard Caring’s Mayfair seafood scene has an “amazing ambience”, although it can be “incredibly loud – perfect if you want to eat in a nightclub” (“my teenage daughters love it!”) On the downside, the luxurious sushi and seafood is “by numbers” and prices are “stratospheric” (“shocking really, are they having a laugh?”) In autumn 2021, the brand crossed the Atlantic with an opening in its true spiritual home – Miami – where the USP is the largest collection of Dom Perignon in the US.

“We are Fish. We are Fresh Fish”. That’s the mission statement for the high-end fishmongers’ chain (of the same name) which has taken over this illustrious Mayfair basement site that once housed The Square (RIP). With retail branches in Notting Hill, Kensington and Fitzrovia (and coming soon in St John’s Wood and Regent’s Park), this is the business’s first restaurant venture (although at its other stores you can eat in, with simple fish bistro dishes on offer). Originally set to open in May 2021, it still had not arrived as we went to press in September 2021.

“Both the burgers and the lobster rolls attract long queues for a reason – they are very good”, agree fans of this 10-year-old surf ’n’ turf chain that has expanded to nine branches across the capital and a growing list around the world. “Prices are up sharply since launch though, so they’re not quite the value they once were” – nor are they as straightforward, with the initial flat price of £20 morphing into a more conventional menu of burgers and assorted seafood. The value offer now is in the “stunning lobster rolls, which have redefined for me and others how lobster should best be served” – so “stick to the lobster for good quality at a reasonable price”. The chain and its equally American-style stablemate Goodman steakhouses were founded and are still owned by Moscow-based Misha Zelman.

“Freshest seafood”… “buzzy vibe”… “excellent staff”… “fabulous location and decor” (inherited from an Edwardian butchers, est. 1911) – “you can’t possibly go wrong” at this Soho landmark, converted nowadays into a “fun” Champagne and seafood bar. “Not a place for a peaceful dinner but then not everyone has a glitter ball. Despite all they’ve been through in the last 18 months, staff are still welcoming and cheerful” – while “the new outside tables are a bonus”. Top Tip: “go for the specials, you’ll never be disappointed”.

2021 Review: Since it closed in 2000 (on the site which became Bellamy’s), this luxury Parisian-based brand (fondée 1927) has lacked a London outlet. Following a successful pop-up last year, this opening on the site of Mayair’s former Chess Club aims to bring it back more permanently. Originally scheduled for April, the actual launch date had yet to be announced in September 2019.

This Mount Street fixture proves that you can still find “solid Italian home-style food” in the heart of Mayfair – all the favourites including pizza, pasta and tiramisu. In proper Italian style, there’s a “great atmosphere”, too.

“Both the burgers and the lobster rolls attract long queues for a reason – they are very good”, agree fans of this 10-year-old surf ’n’ turf chain that has expanded to nine branches across the capital and a growing list around the world. “Prices are up sharply since launch though, so they’re not quite the value they once were” – nor are they as straightforward, with the initial flat price of £20 morphing into a more conventional menu of burgers and assorted seafood. The value offer now is in the “stunning lobster rolls, which have redefined for me and others how lobster should best be served” – so “stick to the lobster for good quality at a reasonable price”. The chain and its equally American-style stablemate Goodman steakhouses were founded and are still owned by Moscow-based Misha Zelman.

“Still a favourite over many years”, this heart-of-Theatreland veteran (est. 1896) yet again topped our poll for serving London’s best fish and seafood: “amazing seafood platters”, “the freshest fish, simply served, and a wondrous fish pie”. Tucked-away down a quirky alley, just off St Martin’s Lane, it occupies a “club-like” series of old-fashioned parlours, enhanced – from June 2021 – by a major refurb, with a new all-year-round terrace (fully enclosed, with a retractable roof), plus a new central crustacean bar. That said, its ratings were not at their usual heights this year. Was it the pandemic closure of theatres (for which it is treasured for pre- and post-show meals)? Was it teething troubles with the new set-up? Whatever the reason, it lost the slot it’s occupied for many years as London’s most-mentioned venue. It also inspired some mixed reports from both before and after its revamp. As a result, both ratings for both food and service slipped a notch (“What’s happened here?! I know we’re being generous to relatively newly re-opened restaurants, but they’ve hired a lot of people who don’t know what they’re doing, and the food was good, but nothing special, especially given the prices.”)

“There’s something about eating sweet, delicious oysters from the half shell and listening to jazz….such a relaxing experience after a hard day” – Sheekey’s adjacent seafood bar is more chilled (you eat at the bar) than in the neighbouring dining rooms, but “lovely”, and higher rated than the rest of the operation this year.