St James's, Japanese Restaurant Guide

After two name changes and a refurb, this upmarket Japanese in a St James’s basement is now named after Tokyo’s poshest shopping district – and urgently needs to establish a new identity. One or two reporters are wowed, but others have found it “full of middle-aged tourists”, with “unexciting food” and “very little input from waiters, who seemed uninterested”. “Prefered it under the old name, Matsuri”.

This tranquil veteran hidden away in an alleyway just off Piccadilly Circus has provided one of London’s “best Japanese experiences” for nearly 40 years. It’s “run by the nicest people” – “the welcome from Lisa is always amazing” – and if you sit downstairs near the counter, she’ll choose a wonderful meal for you from the sushi, sashimi and cooked dishes on offer. Upstairs, there’s waitress service at tables.

“Quick, warm and tasty” is the verdict on Japan Centre owner Tak Tokumine’s “very busy”, “authentic ramen” noodle group, based in the West End but expanding fast via delivery-only kitchens. “The tonkotsu soup stock is a wonder” and the “side dishes are great, too”.

On the Mayfair site of Indian Accent (RIP), this chic May 2021 newcomer is the first London outpost of Gallic TV chef Cyril Lignac, who owns four Parisian restaurants. Unlike his St Germain venture of the same name – which serves only raw food to soak up the cocktails – here at this 100-seater (with ground floor and basement) you can find luxurious hot bites: e.g. scallops with caramelised miso, Madras curried crab, or satay fillet steak. There are also nearly 250 wines and cocktails. Early reporters acclaim this as an “amazing and really original” venue, but even they can find it “overpriced” (a slight echo of the views of the Guardian’s Grace Dent, who judged it ‘a not-very-good restaurant’).

“Top buzz and people watching” are undoubtedly the highlight of a visit to this oligarch playground in Mayfair, run by Russian restaurateur, Arkady Novikov. If you are budget conscious, a visit is madness, but – particularly if you like the scene – it offers a “very expensive but very good Russian take on Japanese cuisine”, plus other pan-Asian bites, grills and noodles.

Just off Regent Street – in the pedestrianised enclave surrounding Heddon Street – this late winter 2020 newcomer is the brainchild of the Japan Centre Team. Inspired by the yokocho ‘alleyways’ of Japan and 1970s Tokyo, you eat ramen and other Japanese bites washed down with well-priced drinks options amidst “authentically fake kitsch” decor. Most reporters are very enthusiastic about the “full-flavoured, thick broths – occasionally you can tell this is all pre-prepared food, but the prices are very reasonable and it's not supposed to be a temple”. See also, Panton Yokocho.

2021 Review: “Always there to satisfy a Japanese food craving”: this conveyor-belt sushi-stalwart in Soho rates well for “fast, good-quality plates” – less so for the “uncomfortable stools and loud music”. But nobody is complaining with “fresh hand-made tempura and salmon rolls for £4 – a steal!”. It lost its spin-offs last year, though, in Covent Garden and South Kensington.

“No frills but great food” is the deal at this small group of basic Japanese canteens, which has pushed south and east after more than 20 years in Soho, with branches now in the City, Balham and Kennington. They serve a wide range of sushi, noodle and rice dishes, with the best value to be found in the bento boxes and ‘set’ meals.

“Quick, warm and tasty” is the verdict on Japan Centre owner Tak Tokumine’s “very busy”, “authentic ramen” noodle group, based in the West End but expanding fast via delivery-only kitchens. “The tonkotsu soup stock is a wonder” and the “side dishes are great, too”.

“Truly outstanding ramen” – possibly “the finest in town” – have won a major reputation among the noodle cognoscenti for his small Japan-based chain, which has branches in Covent Garden, Piccadilly and Angel. “The tasty bowls are always more filling than they seem”, and fans put up with “so-so service and a hot, cramped venue” to secure their fix. The all-important 18-hour pork bone broth was developed to a secret recipe by former racing cyclist Kazuhiro Kanada, who opened his first noodle shop in his native Kyushu in 2009. A new branch in Ealing and a delivery-only kitchen for South London were scheduled to open in late 2021.

“The team that took over from Matsuhiro Araki is outstanding”, and under Marty Lau this Mayfair nine-seater continues to deliver “stunning sushi, immaculately served and presented”. When the maestro moved on in 2019, Michelin not only removed all three stars, but completely deleted the restaurant from its database – a fantastic example of the capriciousness of its decision-making and the partial nature of its ultimate listings. As a result, this Mayfair venue inspires very much less attention and feedback than once it did, but it can still deliver “a meal you’re likely to remember for the rest of your life” (even if the same can be said about the price tag…).

2021 Review: “Good quality Japanese comfort food” including “proper tonkatsu – rich pork served with cabbage” – is on the menu at this rather “cramped” venue off Leicester Square from the duo behind Kanada-Ya, Aaron Burgess-Smith and Tony Lam. “Also of note is the speakeasy bar in the basement”.

2018 Review: Since 1976, Tak Tokumine’s Japanese cultural centre, complete with food hall and canteen, has occupied a variety of sites near Piccadilly Circus. This latest 6,000 sq ft incarnation is planned to open in September 2017, with 100-seater dining hall, surrounded by open kitchens.

“Consistently good food from an appealing menu” has earned a solid following for this Asian-fusion chain with branches in Soho, Marylebone, Primrose Hill, Chelsea and Barnes. Opinion is split on the relative merits of its two main offerings – all agree on the “terrific sushi” but others register both pros and cons for the hot dishes.

“Quick, warm and tasty” is the verdict on Japan Centre owner Tak Tokumine’s “very busy”, “authentic ramen” noodle group, based in the West End but expanding fast via delivery-only kitchens. “The tonkotsu soup stock is a wonder” and the “side dishes are great, too”.

“Absolutely top-notch food” – “pricey but great!” – is the key to the steady growth enjoyed by this Copenhagen-based Japanese group, whose most recent (2019) openings in Soho and Chelsea join established venues across London. It’s “an interesting concept, well executed” – “fresh and delicious sushi”, yakitori skewers, and “colourful, almost art-directed salads”, delivered in dining rooms that combine clean, Japanese minimalism with Danish hygge.

2019 Review: Stalwart Mayfair Japanese near Shepherd Market, where a small but dedicated fan club continue to acclaim high quality, traditional cooking.

‘High-grade wagyu, supplied by Zen-Noh, Japan’s agricultural cooperative’ was an important part of the raison d’être for this Mayfair five-year-old, set up by the organisation as a showcase for Japanese ingredients. It continues to be a central menu feature, but – with the involvement of London importers Atariya Foods Group in the restaurant’s management since 2020 – there’s now more emphasis on the sushi and sashimi for which Atariya is known. Even those who say a meal here is “incredibly expensive” rate it as “good all-round”.

Star chef Luke Selby (former head chef of Hide), together with brothers Nathaniel and Theo, now runs this intimate 10-seat counter experience in the cellar of the 275-year-old Blue Posts pub in Chinatown, which melds a love of British produce, Japanese techniques and classic French training. We’ve rated it on limited but outstanding initial feedback and the impossibility of getting a table – bookings are released on the first of every month, at midday.

“Our daughters love this restaurant – especially the cubed steak and iceberg lettuce!”. This manifestly cool Soho three-year-old offers sushi and sashimi as well as a wide range of fish and meat from the robata grill.