London Chinatown Restaurant Guide

“You never feel cramped or too close to other tables” in the gracious West End flagship branch of Carlo Distefano’s national group of old-school, comfortable Italian restaurants (London was one of the last destinations of a chain nowadays numbering about 20). Culinary results are “consistent” from the “very comprehensive menu” – if there was a gripe this year, it was over the odd let-down on the service front.

“Staff could not be nicer” at this veteran Soho Italian, which originally opened in 1971 but has shifted site twice in its lifetime (most recently in 2021, from nearby Poland Street). “The new venue is in the old style and it’s as good as ever”. Fans value “having a reliable, independent Italian in this part of London” and its “delightful”, personal approach particularly underpins its appeal. It also helps that the cooking is “very authentic” and “reliable” too: “standard dishes from a sensibly short menu but nicely done”.

2023 Review: “Great name… even better food” say fans of this casual, Japanese-inspired dining experience within a Soho hotel, whose all-day dining possibilities (breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea…) were conceived by star chef Garry Hollihead. Too limited feedback as yet, though, for a full rating of its mix of poke bowls, salads, sliders and main plates, complemented by an oriental cocktail list and sake menu.

“The stories behind the dishes are so lovely” at Adam Handling’s Covent Garden HQ, where diners face the open kitchen to enjoy an eight-course menu presented by the chef and his team for £195 per person. “The wow-factor of the beautiful presentation really adds to the overall pleasure of the meal” and “you will seldom see such intricately and delicately plated dishes”. For most diners, “there’s substance to match all the theatrics” too, with the resulting tastes on the plate being “absolutely superb”. But there are also those who – while acknowledging “flashes of brilliance” – still feel that “‘we’re-trying-so-hard’ screams from every dish” to the extent of seeming “pointless” or “pretentious”. “And then there’s the bill…” which even fans concede is “daftly expensive”. The main verdict though? “can’t wait to return!”. Top Tip – corkage free lunchtimes: BYO at no extra cost!

“THE place to go for top-class Californian cooking in London” – Victor Garvey’s Soho five-year-old may be “eye-wateringly expensive” (“the price, ooh la la!”) but serves “top-notch cooking well deserving of its Michelin star”. “SoLa is that rare place that sources genuinely top-class ingredients and cooks them to perfection”: presenting them in either a 10-course tasting menu for £139 per person, or 17-course tasting menu for £229 per person. There are also drinks pairings to the above (at £170 and £230 per person) and a “fabulous” wine list drawn mostly from the US (and primarily, but not exclusively, from the West Coast). Despite refurbishment two years ago, the café-style ambience is the weakest link in the experience.

These clubby Nikkei haunts from former Nobu exec Kurt Zdesar in Soho and Marylebone have spawned an international group with outlets in North America and the Middle East – with Manchester scheduled to follow this year. The food can be “excellent”, and the joints are “buzzing” (so don’t go if you want a quiet evening, or the “thumping and repetitive club music spoils the dining experience”).

“Surprisingly decent Italian fare… proper (and huge) pizza and pasta and, if you have room, pleasing puddings” carves an ongoing niche for these smartly decorated outposts of an international Italian chain (started in 2004), where – as the name hints – many dishes feature Mozzarella di Bufala.

Zima is a Russian Restaurant located in the heart of Soho offering traditional Russian dishes with a modern twist.Treat yourself to the best priced caviar in London and other favourites of Russian cuisine, sip on our homemade selection of infused vodka and enjoy the wel...

“You can sit at the grill if you want added excitement” at this traditional basement Japanese in St James’s, where there’s the option of either a teppanyaki or sushi counter, as well as more conventional seating and a private room. All reports this year were of “superb” meals.

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.

Looking for that “great, little, traditional French bistro in the heart of theatreland”? For many in our annual diners’ poll, this “family-run” venue where much of the seating is in an atmospheric brick-arched cellar is “a firm favourite”, helped by its “reasonable prices”: “we have been visiting for 20 years, celebrating birthdays and engagements as well as their Bastille day and Beaujolais special events – it feels like a home from home”. Don’t expect culinary fireworks, though – sometimes the food is “underwhelming” (“still, despite it being below par, because of the staff we enjoyed ourselves!)”

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.

“It is not the cheapest option in town”, but this “always-busy”, “classic” Italian (founded in 1945) is very “well-situated” and “does deliver consistency”; hitting just the right note for a “Central Casting” crowd of St James’s regulars, many of them clad in the expensive pin-striped suits sold in the local gents’ outfitters. “The food is good without being exceptional”; “staff know their clientele and make them feel special” and although the question is raised – “do the tables have to be so close together?” – such “intimate” seating is perfect for the local property and art dealers to gossip over. “It’s pricey for sure… but that’s Jermyn St for you”.

“Still a really good location and format” – this Soho ‘tapas haven’ is increasingly forgotten about nowadays, but can still merit a visit. Its Italian/Spanish dishes “aren’t as good as they used to be” but are “solid, and better than many offerings in the area”; and there’s an interesting selection of drinks. Also, “it has a really relaxed style, but with all the vibe of neighbouring Carnaby Street”.

“Keeping up its standards” – this “sweet” and stylish converted pub near the Royal Opera House operates over two floors. It’s part of the Salt Yard chain, and serves the Spanish and Italian tapas for which the group is known: “good food”, but some feel it’s “expensive” for what it is.

“Excellent for an informal French meal at very affordable prices” – this Gallic pair are the creation of Lyon-born Aurelia Noel-Delclos, who named them after her food-loving grandmother. With its “child-friendly menu” and “well-designed bistro-brasserie ambience”, the newer Victoria branch has overtaken the site in the touristic heart of old Covent Garden market in popularity. Don’t expect the earth – they serve “reasonable, bistro-type fare”.

“A tasty offshoot of the great Cinnamon Club” – Vivek Singh’s “prettily decorated” cafés (“resembling a tropical garden centre cafe!”) offer a “good-value”, “Indian-with-a-twist” menu: “hot curry staples” plus options “reminiscent of street food”. Practically all comments refer to the original – “a go-to in Covent Garden” for its very many fans – but he also opened in Richmond this year, taking over the former Carluccio’s venue diagonally opposite the station. One caution in reports – it looks time to pep up the decor in WC2 – it risks looking a bit “shabby”.

2021 Review: Up-and-down reports on this “lovely” Soho haunt, specialising in wood-fired, Mediterranean, grilled dishes – part of Salt Yard Group (all of which was absorbed into the Urban Pubs portfolio in November 2018). Fans applaud the “delicious tapas from this ever-reliable family” but quite a few reports express disappointment: “maybe there’s a sense it isn’t quite what it was”.

“Nowhere else like it!” – for “sheer class, history and pedigree” it is hard to match London’s oldest restaurant in St James’s (est. 1742, on this site since the 1980s). If you are a traditionalist, it is “perfect, perfect, perfect” – “a quintessentially British restaurant specialising in premium-quality fish and seafood – plus also game and meats” – whose discreet and comfortable old-world surroundings are typical of nearby clubland, complete with booths and well-spaced tables; and all orchestrated by “impeccable staff”. It’s best enjoyed if your Wealth Manager is treating you, obviously, although complaints about its notoriously terrifying prices were quite muted this year. Top Menu Tip – “Start with a dozen wonderful, plump oysters and a sharp red onion and red wine vinegar sauce. Then call over the carving trolley for several slices of perfectly rare meat from the large roast sirloin of beef”. Or take your pick of the caviar, lobster or twice baked Stilton souflé and “it’s a case of lunchtime heaven”.

“I love Bentley’s!” – “You always come away happy and well fed” from Richard Corrigan’s carefully nurtured institution, which has a “lovely, old school feel that’s not too formal”; and which celebrates its 108th year in 2024. “Choose upstairs or down depending on your preferred level of formality”: “downstairs is jollier” – “the Oyster bar is an absolute favourite” – while “upstairs is more calm and quiet”. In both locations, you can enjoy “consistently great” fish and seafood prepared in a traditional style. And in summer, the “gorgeous”, big, heated terrace on the pavement outside comes into its own. Personable service is “attentive”, but “you are left in peace” when required and this is a “great and reliable central London business choice”. Top Menu Tip – “the dressed crab here is the best in town”; “wonderful oysters, and the specials are always worth checking out”.