Chinatown, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

The Selby brothers’ “very snug little basement venue for counter-top fine dining” shows “levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”; with cooking that’s “consistently well-thought-out, imaginative and bold”. “Ultimately there can be a clash between the expectation of enjoying fine cuisine and fine wines, while being perched on a stool with people brushing past”, so “file this under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”.

“To-die-for steaks” can be a surprise find in the restaurant overlooking the floor of London’s biggest casino, on Leicester Square. It’s a quirky space, in the circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre, and its USDA-imported meat and superior wines are something of a passion project for casino owner, Simon Thomas.

“Another reincarnation for the slightly cramped room above ‘The French’… and this is a good one!” – Neil Borthwick and his team produce “simple and gutsy food, with big steaks, fresh fish, and tasty Gallic classics on a daily changing menu which will leave you full and pleased that you visit the old place”: “a London fixture of decades’ standing”.

“A quiet haven tucked away near Piccadilly Circus” – in summer, the outside courtyard is so peaceful it’s hard to believe just how central you are. “A lovely afternoon tea at sensible prices” is the top culinary attraction here. At other times, the “stylish” setting is “conducive to a relaxed meal” but its “bistro-style fare” is a case of “nothing to criticise, but with vastly better places in easy reach”.

2019 Review: “An old treasure given the Nick Jones treatment… welcome back!” – this resurrected Soho landmark gets the thumbs-up from most who have visited after its swish revamp care of the Soho House group, certainly for its “handsome looks” (including the gorgeous bar). Its “initially underwhelming-looking” brasserie menu can “deliver real joy”, even if overall ratings for the cooking are rather more middling.

“Love the vibey new location even though it’s big” – in late 2021, Jack Croft and Will Murray moved from 10 Heddon Street (where their original 12 weeks residency lasted over a year) to this “stylish” new 150-cover site in St James’s, incorporating a bar, terrace and chef’s counter. One or two diners dismiss the new version as “nothing special”, but most accounts are full-on raves for the sharing-styles plates, originating from the UK and their Esher smallholding: “this has to be future of restaurants – sensational food, sustainably sourced, creatively used… magic!”

A semi-independent addition to the original venue next door, its “reliably fresh fish” and glam, casual styling make this American-style seafood bar “a great post-theatre favourite”. There are no specific gripes about food or service, but “the pricing seems to be approaching the level of the main restaurant, taking away some of its raison d’être”.

“A huge wine list packed with unfamiliar names” – all of them biodynamic or natural – “interesting, fairly priced, good-quality Mediterranean food” and a “guaranteed warm welcome” ensure this “fun place to eat always impresses”. Now in its second decade, the “cool vibe” and funky atmosphere make it a pleasant throwback to the Soho of years past.

“A hidden gem in Soho” for œnophiles – this “lovely, intimate basement” has a “great selection of wines for the enthusiast”, including “old, rare and super-interesting bottles”, “from top producers and at affordable prices”. Founded by master sommeliers Gearoid Daveney and Xavier Rousset as the premises for Trade, a private club for people working in hospitality, it remains at its best as an after-hours option. There’s a “simple menu” of charcuterie, well-made cheese toasties and the like. Top Tip – “a dangerous joint to know about as it’s open till 3am on weekends!” (1am midweek).

2021 Review: In the heart of the West End, this decidedly glam yearling scored better in our survey than the mixed rep it received in press reviews. The first UK outpost of a 30-strong international chain hailing from India and the Gulf, its repertoire of tapas-y offerings are very much of the funky, evolved school of Indian cuisine, and reporters salivate over “an amazing choice of inventive dishes” that are “far better than you would expect” in this touristy locale.

2021 Review: “Cracking views over the rooftops of Trafalgar Square and beyond from a sun-drenched room” earn the NPG’s top-floor dining room decent ratings as a venue for brunch, lunch or afternoon tea, or for an “early supper before the opera at the Coliseum”. The food is “quite adequate” although “not spectacular”. (There’s also a Spartan café in the basement).

“It’s just so, so comforting… out-of-towners, especially those north of 50, always find it magical!” This “always buzzy” and still-famous Theatreland icon (‘rolled out’ by Richard Caring over the last ten years as a national chain) is, says fans, “still a wonderful experience”. Such advocates often feel that “it never fails to impress” (even if the A-listers moved on a few years ago) and – for business occasions – appreciate the fact that “clients love it!” Even such boosterism often acknowledges, however, that “these days better food can be found elsewhere” (“it’s not remotely going to challenge or educate your palate”). And, while it’s long been accepted that “you don’t come here for its comfort food”, its ratings nowadays support harsher critics who feel that “it’s just become an overworked cliché” – “the food is moving to the disappointing level of the chain… and service too”.

“Great atmosphere in the heart of Soho” is the big draw at this all-day brasserie from the Soho House group, which provides “simple food cooked well and friendly, attentive staff” – a winning package that’s particularly “perfect for breakfast” or “great for pre-theatre”.

“Creative food, interested staff and a pleasant space” (formerly Arbutus, RIP) have made this ‘farm-to-fork’ venue from the prolific Gladwin family “a great addition to Soho”. Launched in 2019, it’s their only outpost in the West End but they now have six London restaurants stretching from ‘The Shed’ in Notting Hill to ‘The Fat Badger’ in Richmond – this is the best-rated of the bunch.

“Jeremy Lee continues to deliver seasonal excellence in elegant surroundings with an atmosphere to match” at the Hart Bros’ “delightful” and “unfailing” bastion of old Soho (which also incorporates an eponymous members’ club for the foodie in-crowd on the upper floors of this rambling property, whose blue plaque celebrates former tenant, Karl Marx). Lee’s deft British cooking is “always thoughtful and cheering” and “the wonderful room is compact enough to ensure great service”.

“A wonderful themed entrance, through a bookcase in a library and down dark, futuristic stairs” sets an appropriate scene at this Marvel-themed basement (in association with Warner Bros), just off Piccadilly Circus. “The décor of the restaurant itself, though, contains rather less fantasy… without the entrance you might not even guess the Marvel-connection… it feels more jazz-age New York or an ocean liner”. (“Contrary to my impression from the website, it is essentially one big room containing most of the different restaurants and bars, although the differences between them are subtle.”) “The food is a mixed bag”: some items are “excellent”, but “despite the talented chef, other dishes are overpriced or subpar”. Overall, though, leaving aside the cartoonish prices, everyone accepts that there is some serious culinary endeavour going on here. And such feedback that we have on the most expensive option (the exotic tasting menu in the separate ‘Monarch Theatre’ experience) says it’s “exceptional”.

“As good as ever” – this modern and understated Soho wine bar favourite provides “good food, if in rather cramped and noisy surroundings”. A key feature is its handwritten ‘Black Book’ which lists the fine wines available each day.

“Perfect, joyous French cooking with pitch-perfect flavours” inspires fans of Anthony Demetre’s well-regarded venture, which he moved here from Mayfair pre-Covid. The very “spacious” and “tasteful” dining room and its superb position – just off Trafalgar Square, but away from the madding crowds – makes it an excellent business choice (or pre/post-theatre). In terms of value, many diners tip any set options here over the à la carte.

“The kind of place to bring your lover” – this “perfect”, “sweet” townhouse is an “old-favourite”, whose “cosy, panelled and candle-lit” setting is perennially nominated as one of London’s most romantic. Despite its “Dickensian” charm, it has an “idiosyncratic”, even “groovy” vibe, inspired by its long-term independent owner, whose shop dealing in antiquarian prints is next door (and pre-dates the restaurant, which opened in 1985, by about a decade). From a slightly “limited” menu, the “robust and honest” cuisine “isn’t going to win any innovation awards, but is very well-executed” and well-priced; and it moves with the times. “The real attraction is the superb wines at non-greedy prices” selected by Edmunds (“not as broad a list as Noble Rot but much more affordable”), which helps fuel its “decadent and sexy” appeal. Service can be “hard pressed” but is “so friendly”. Top Tip – the basement has its plus points, but the best seats are on the ground floor.