Harden's survey result
Summary
“The lovely Soho institution above this legendary pub” (where de Gaulle is said to have composed some of his speeches during WWII) is currently “in the very safe hands of Neil Borthwick” (Angela Hartnett’s hubbie). There’s “wizardry afoot” here but “no faff or fancy” – by “doing simple but really excellent things to top produce but not doing much to it” he creates “a tight menu of absolute bangers”, with “big flavours singing out” (“a plate of greens can be as full of oomph as a tartare or a chop”). “Staff are tremendous” and for many reporters this is “a go-to destination in the West End”.
Summary
“Another reincarnation for the slightly cramped room above ‘The French’… and this is a good one!” – Neil Borthwick and his team produce “simple and gutsy food, with big steaks, fresh fish, and tasty Gallic classics on a daily changing menu which will leave you full and pleased that you visit the old place”: “a London fixture of decades’ standing”.
Summary
The “intimate” dining room above one of Soho’s most historic bars is “the perfect spot for a Soho lunch” (“before a pint at Norman’s” for the full media in-crowd experience). Fittingly, it serves “good French food” – “seasonal stuff done deftly” – which you can “eat while admiring the history-laden walls” that tell the tale of General de Gaulle and his Free French, who kept their spirits up here during WWII exile. The kitchen is now run by Neil Borthwick, Angela Hartnett’s other half. And it was here, 30 years ago, that Fergus Henderson of St John first made his mark as a chef.
Summary
“Oozing rustic, Gallic charm of yesteryear” – the “lovely, intimate room” above Soho’s famous Francophile watering hole (where de Gaulle is said to have composed his ‘À tous les Français’ speech during WWII, rallying the French people) oscillates over the years between being a forgotten-about curio, and sporadic partnerships with brilliant chefs (e.g. St John’s Fergus Henderson, who started out here) that lead to its re-discovery. The arrival of Neil Borthwick (Mr Angela Hartnett) at the end of last year sees it riding another high – “it’s smashing to have this old-favourite reborn under such good hands” – and his “great, old-fashioned, gutsy French menu” (“short, but with dishes which seem dragged from a distant memory”) can be “top class”, while service is “fabulously friendly” too. A few reporters, though, feels “it doesn’t live up to the hype” or that “while great to have it back, it’s still a work in progress…”
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at The French House?
49 Dean Street, London, W1D 5BG
Restaurant details
The French House Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Great as always. Best Madeleines ever."
"Just fantastic, everything you would hope for from a famous culinary institution "
"Tiny place with very enthusiastic service. Simple, well judged dishes. "
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £21.50 |
| Filter Coffee | £4.00 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Bread | £0.00 |
| Service | 10.00% |
49 Dean Street, London, W1D 5BG
Opening hours
| Monday | 12 pm‑11 pm |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑11 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑11 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑11 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑11 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑11 pm |
| Sunday | 12 pm‑10:30 pm |
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