Harden's survey result
A “go-to spot in Soho” serving natural and biodynamic wines by the bottle or glass alongside a hybrid menu of “delectable” Italian-North African dishes “that let the high-quality ingredients sing for themselves”. “Super-lively on a busy night” while also “laid back and relaxed”, it’s a “great place to hang out by yourself or go on a date”. Top Tip: “the drinking vinegars [true] are delicious and must be tried”.
“Inventive” dishes with Italian and North African influences, “friendly (and informative) service” and “an impressive selection of natural wines (by the glass on frequent rotation)” are the makings of a “lovely evening” at this Soho spot. “You have to relish its super-buzzy crowded spaces”, but most reporters “love every minute”.
A “tasty, if not overchallenging hybrid of Italian and North African” dishes along with “unusual wines” win fans for this “nicely buzzing” Soho spot.
“A dark, intimate, welcoming den in Soho”; the “beautiful” Mediterranean small plates are “creative” and “served with real charm”.
In the heart of Soho, a bistro of rare - perhaps unique - decorative brutality, offering a short and ever-changing menu, realised to a high standard.
Are you a 'Bobo'? Do you combine a bourgeois love of fine food with a bohemian contempt for tablecloths and all the other traditional appurtenances of catered quality dining? Congratulations. A restaurant precisely honed to your tastes has suddenly arrived - far from its natural Hoxton or Shoreditch milieu - in the very heart of Soho.
Indeed, short of being actually sited in a multi-story car park, it's difficult to imagine that a restaurant could be much more deconstructed than this one. Furnished, seemingly, from a car boot sale, its small interior features principally a large bar at which the seats, thanks to an almost total absence of leg room, are fearsomely uncomfortable. And the Muzak? iPod, eat you heart out - it's from vinyl. How 'now' is that?
This is not a natural setting, you might think, to enjoy a beautiful plump partridge, precisely cooked, accompanied perhaps by a tasty pumpkin mush with chestnuts and cream cheese. Or a decent chocolate mousse. Or to taste from the short but interesting range of wines, scrawled almost illegibly on a whiteboard. The aim here seems rather like that of Paris's much-fêted Chateaubriand - to offer simple food of a quality which transcends the setting, to a degree which is perhaps supposed to be ironic.
That aim has substantially been achieved so, needless to say, the place has been a great hit with the foodie world - on our visit, the the Terroirs boys were in, seeing what all the fuss was about. In the longer term, however, quite how such a profound lack of comfort will play with the wider market, it's really quite difficult to say.
41 Dean St, London, W1D 4PY
|Monday||12 pm-10:30 pm|
|Tuesday||12 pm-10:30 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm-10:30 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm-10:30 pm|
|Friday||12 pm-10:30 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm-10:30 pm|
|Sunday||12 pm-5 pm|