Harden's survey result
Summary
“One word… phenomenal!” – the unanimous verdict again this year on the small London outpost of acclaimed Lakeland chef, Simon Rogan’s empire. When it first opened, they only told you the address after you booked: nowadays, a discreet plaque and black-painted frontage advertises the presence of this 12-seat chef’s table (expanded from 8 covers in 2023) and development kitchen in a cute pedestrianised Soho alleyway between Wardour Street and Dean Street. Chef Charlie Tayler provides a 15-course tasting menu for £195 per person that’s some of the best-rated European cuisine in the capital. Supplied in part by Rogan’s organic farm in Cartmel (‘Our Farm’) and overseen by the group’s executive chef Oli Marlow, the focus is on the theatrical ingredient-led seasonal British cuisine for which L’Enclume has won such renown.
Summary
“Wow factor = 10/10 – it’s an incredible experience”. This chef’s table and development kitchen in a Soho alleyway is “the place to go for a taste of Simon Rogan’s excellent and inventive cuisine” and does justice to the renown of his renowned Michelin three star HQ, L’Enclume, far away in the Lake District. “The decor was improved” in 2023 and you are served at a curved counter with 12 seats. Service is “very friendly” and you eat from a tasting menu designed by executive chef Oli Marlow and head chef Charlie Tayler for £185 per person, with much of the produce sourced from ‘Our Farm’ – Simon’s business in the lakes. Practically all reports rate the culinary results as “exceptional”.
Summary
“If you can’t make it to Cartmel to visit L’Enclume, enjoy Simon Rogan’s innovative cuisine here in London in a strange combination of chef’s table and culinary laboratory: a unique gastronomic and social experience in all respects!”. From May 2023, the star chef’s Soho outpost grew (a little) in size to seat 12 guests (up from the original 8) together with a complete refurb. But fans say “they didn’t need to bother with the decor when the food (from executive head chef Oli Marlow and head chef Charlie Tayler) is this spectacular”; and they hail it as “the top spot in the capital for those who want to focus on what’s on the plate” (for which the ingredients are primarily sourced from ‘Our Farm’ – Simon’s Lake District property). Compared with the culinary pyrotechnics and inventiveness, the “wine list is quite simple by comparison”.
Summary
“Charlie Taylor and his small team are brilliant hosts, striking the perfect balance of informality and professionalism to draw you into the intimate dinner-party style mood” at this tiny chef’s table experience in a Soho alleyway, whose menu is, in part, a showcase for owner Simon Rogan’s famous L’Enclume. “Don’t come expecting linen table cloths and flunkies: you are dining in an extended kitchen, so it only works if you want the food to be the star. And it’s truly stellar” – “strong classic flavour combinations inspired by seasonal produce”. One niggle repeated a couple of times this year: “numerous dishes seemed simply ready to plate” which can detract from the experience (“I was disappointed that all we really saw was the final touches to the preparation, it was fun, but I missed the opportunity to learn more about the food, as you can at some chef’s tables”). For the most part, though, few doubt that a meal here is anything other than “stunning”. Despite awarding L’Enclume three Michelin stars, the tyre men bizarrely award no stars here.
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
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16a St Anne's Court, London, W1F 0BF
Restaurant details
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £30.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £3.50 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 15.00% |
16a St Anne's Court, London, W1F 0BF
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 7 pm‑11 pm |
| Wednesday | 7 pm‑11 pm |
| Thursday | 7 pm‑11 pm |
| Friday | 12:30 pm‑3:30 pm, 7 pm‑11 pm |
| Saturday | 12:30 pm‑3:30 pm, 7 pm‑11 pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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