Soho legend, The Gay Hussar (founded 1953 and RIP since 2018) has been rejuvenated by Noble Rot’s Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and opened in September 2020. Even in its heyday, the point of a meal here was to polish off a conspiratorial bottle of wine or two rather than critiquing its stodgy Hungarian scoff. So its ressurection by a wine-focussed group feels like a true continuation of its former spirit. This sense of continuity is reinforced by its still old-fashioned decor, with dark wood-panelling and cartoons from Martin Rowson. Nice to have the old haunt back again. But the dishes are now (thank heavens) much better; even if chef Paul Weaver (with input from The Sportsman's Stephen Harris) does incorporate the odd Mitteleuropean note into what’s essentially a hearty, modern European menu.
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Noble Rot Soho Restaurant Diner Reviews
"A lovely menu with a nod to the history of its predecessor the Gay Hussar. A great wine list. Warm and knowledgeable service in beautiful surroundings. Chicken with wine and girolles to share. Love it. Tell your friends. "