Harden's says
Soho legend, The Gay Hussar (founded 1953 and RIP since 2018) has been rejuvenated by Noble Rot’s Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and opened in September 2020. Even in its heyday, the point of a meal here was to polish off a conspiratorial bottle of wine or two rather than critiquing its stodgy Hungarian scoff. So its ressurection by a wine-focussed group feels like a true continuation of its former spirit. This sense of continuity is reinforced by its still old-fashioned decor, with dark wood-panelling and cartoons from Martin Rowson. Nice to have the old haunt back again. But the dishes are now (thank heavens) much better; even if chef Paul Weaver (with input from The Sportsman's Stephen Harris) does incorporate the odd Mitteleuropean note into what’s essentially a hearty, modern European menu.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“It’s always a pleasure to return” to this “dignified but unstuffy favourite” with the “lovely atmosphere of old Soho” – nowadays part of Dan Keeling & Mark Andrew’s all-conquering little clan, but for many decades previously adored as ‘The Gay Hussar’ (long RIP: famously a parlour of political and literary intrigues). “An excellent choice for lovers of the grape”, the “ridiculously comprehensive” wine list “will blow your mind!” But “the food is pretty good too” (“especially if you order the chicken with morels and vin jaune!”): “straightforward, largely Gallic dishes” which are served in the “tight, buzzy and intimate space” which takes in two floors of the building (and there is also “a nice private room for a party upstairs”). “The smaller space means the service is better and friendlier than its siblings”: the team is “helpful” and "super-knowledgeable" – “the only problem is deciding what to drink!”. It’s also “a pity that it’s so hard to book a table at a sensible time…”. Top Top – “the set menu lunch is unbeatable value”.
Summary
“On the site of the old Gay Hussar in Soho”, Dan Keeling & Mark Andrew’s “tightly spaced” drinking den has recreated the “wonderful raffish atmosphere” of its famous predecessor. In combination with the attractions of its “fabulous wine list” – “always with something new to try”; with the huge draw of “outstanding vintages by the glass”; and “presided over by knowledgeable and really friendly staff” – it “makes you nostalgic for the days of the long long lunch”, especially “if a cheeky afternoon away from work can be arranged”. A few critics view its culinary performance as “indifferent” to the point of being “vastly overrated”, but most diners hail its “unfailingly good Anglo-French classics” as “superb food, where they manage to elevate the simple into something special”. Nowadays one of the Top-40 most-mentioned locations in our annual diners’ poll, its most ardent fans claim “there’s no better place to eat in London”, especially if you go for the “amazing value set meal”. Top Menu Tips – “The Liver Pâté Choux bun nibbles are addictive”; “the roast chicken with rice and Jura vin jaune sauce is pretty good too”.
Summary
“Replacement for the beloved Gay Hussar” – Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew’s 2021 resurrection of this famous Soho site has pulled off the amazingly difficult task of being almost as popular as their Bloomsbury original. “Everything about this establishment is wonderful, but the wine list elevates it to the exceptional” – “the care that goes into it is astonishing” (“I could happily spend the rest of my life working through it!”). The hearty food is “always enjoyable” too and “expertly served” by particularly “knowledgeable” and “friendly staff” in “the delightful atmosphere of this gorgeous old restaurant, which has been brought back to life by the Noble Rot team”. Top Top – “amazing value set lunch”.
Summary
“After decades of being a Gay Hussar regular I now find myself at this fine replacement run by committed wine experts...” – this famous Soho address was resurrected in 2021 by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and fans are “happy to report standards just as high as at their original site in Holborn”. Star of the show is the “gargantuan wine list” – “a treasure trove of interesting bins” (albeit “with some jaw-dropping prices”) – “interpreted by knowledgeable and friendly staff”, who help maintain the “charming and quirky” atmosphere of this “solid and comfortable” site (which, as its predecessor, opened in 1953). The “food is not as exceptional as the wine” but the “gutsy and value-led menu” of “good ingredients, served simply” is generally well-reviewed for its “delicious and unpretentious” qualities. Top Tip – “excellent-value set lunch”.
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Noble Rot Soho?
2 Greek Street, London, W1D 4NB
Restaurant details
Noble Rot Soho Restaurant Diner Reviews
"We have had several excellent evenings at various Rots but this time the food was rather average - my wife thought it was good pub food level, which isn't great when mains were in the £30-50 range. Will try again I'm sure as much credit in the bank."
"Great lunch spot, yes it's on the pricey side but the food is heaven and hard to know what to choose. A nice 3 course menu i had cockles to start so fresh and delicious and their home made pasta filled with rabbit in a brown butter and sage sauce was devine. We also had a sea bream dish which was excellent. Lots of history in this restaurant which was the Gay Hussar it's really quite atmospheric and nostaligic for the old days of old boozy 'working' lunches."
"Very lively, buzzing place. Friendly interested service. Interesting food choices, - impeccable starters. Mains had choices had only one veal chop left, but the sea bream alternative was excellent. And of course, the wines! A Vinho Verde that we had had in the Penedes then a delicious St Joseph. It seems it has the same feel as the Gay Hussar, although food and wine are very different."
"Lovely service if a tiny bit bit erratic - they initially forgot my choux bun, but then didn’t charge me for it, so that cancels out. Speaking of the choux bun, it really is a mouth full of loveliness - salty and sweet from the Tokay jelly. The set menu is very good value at £24: the Roast Pork Neck, Borlotti Beans & Salsa Verde was fantastic. The pork was served slightly pink in a meaty broth, beans firm but yielding (good for crushing into the broth) and the broth and salsa verde had a slight sweetness (from mint?) which lifted the dish. I heartily recommend the suggested wine pairings by the glass. "
"We enjoyed a very fine 2 course lunch for £24 today. The pork collar was especially good in a delicious broth with borlotti beans and salsa verde which was piquant with a touch of sweetness. Well worth adding the wine pairing for a glass of Cannonau with the pork. "
"Food high quality. Beautifully cooked. Wine list - good range of price points. The first floor dining room was much more comfortable than the ground floor. "
Prices
| Availability | 2 courses | 3 courses |  |
 |
 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lunch | £22.00 | £26.00 |  |
|
|
Traditional European menu
| Starter | Main | Veggies | Pudding |
|---|---|---|---|
| £12.00 | £23.00 | £0.00 | £11.00 |
| Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £23.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £3.00 |
| Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 12.00% |
2 Greek Street, London, W1D 4NB
Opening hours
| Monday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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