Harden's says
Soho legend, The Gay Hussar (founded 1953 and RIP since 2018) has been rejuvenated by Noble Rot’s Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and opened in September 2020. Even in its heyday, the point of a meal here was to polish off a conspiratorial bottle of wine or two rather than critiquing its stodgy Hungarian scoff. So its ressurection by a wine-focussed group feels like a true continuation of its former spirit. This sense of continuity is reinforced by its still old-fashioned decor, with dark wood-panelling and cartoons from Martin Rowson. Nice to have the old haunt back again. But the dishes are now (thank heavens) much better; even if chef Paul Weaver (with input from The Sportsman's Stephen Harris) does incorporate the odd Mitteleuropean note into what’s essentially a hearty, modern European menu.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“On the site of the old Gay Hussar in Soho”, Dan Keeling & Mark Andrew’s “tightly spaced” drinking den has recreated the “wonderful raffish atmosphere” of its famous predecessor. In combination with the attractions of its “fabulous wine list” – “always with something new to try”; with the huge draw of “outstanding vintages by the glass”; and “presided over by knowledgeable and really friendly staff” – it “makes you nostalgic for the days of the long long lunch”, especially “if a cheeky afternoon away from work can be arranged”. A few critics view its culinary performance as “indifferent” to the point of being “vastly overrated”, but most diners hail its “unfailingly good Anglo-French classics” as “superb food, where they manage to elevate the simple into something special”. Nowadays one of the Top-40 most-mentioned locations in our annual diners’ poll, its most ardent fans claim “there’s no better place to eat in London”, especially if you go for the “amazing value set meal”. Top Menu Tips – “The Liver Pâté Choux bun nibbles are addictive”; “the roast chicken with rice and Jura vin jaune sauce is pretty good too”.
Summary
“Replacement for the beloved Gay Hussar” – Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew’s 2021 resurrection of this famous Soho site has pulled off the amazingly difficult task of being almost as popular as their Bloomsbury original. “Everything about this establishment is wonderful, but the wine list elevates it to the exceptional” – “the care that goes into it is astonishing” (“I could happily spend the rest of my life working through it!”). The hearty food is “always enjoyable” too and “expertly served” by particularly “knowledgeable” and “friendly staff” in “the delightful atmosphere of this gorgeous old restaurant, which has been brought back to life by the Noble Rot team”. Top Top – “amazing value set lunch”.
Summary
“After decades of being a Gay Hussar regular I now find myself at this fine replacement run by committed wine experts...” – this famous Soho address was resurrected in 2021 by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and fans are “happy to report standards just as high as at their original site in Holborn”. Star of the show is the “gargantuan wine list” – “a treasure trove of interesting bins” (albeit “with some jaw-dropping prices”) – “interpreted by knowledgeable and friendly staff”, who help maintain the “charming and quirky” atmosphere of this “solid and comfortable” site (which, as its predecessor, opened in 1953). The “food is not as exceptional as the wine” but the “gutsy and value-led menu” of “good ingredients, served simply” is generally well-reviewed for its “delicious and unpretentious” qualities. Top Tip – “excellent-value set lunch”.
Summary
“An admirable replacement for the Gay Hussar and a great sibling to the original Noble Rot” – this legendary Soho site (founded as the Gay Hussar in 1953, and closed in 2018) has been rejuvenated by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew and re-opened in September 2020. Even in its heyday, the point of a meal here was to polish off a conspiratorial bottle of wine or two, rather than critiquing its stodgy Hungarian scoff. So its resurrection by a wine-focussed group feels like a true continuation of its former spirit and “there is no end to exploring the wine list” which recreates the excellence of the first Noble Rot; as does its “warm, knowledgeable and impressively passionate service”. The interior was always “really lovely” and retains its still old-fashioned looks, with dark wood-panelling and cartoons from Martin Rowson. Meanwhile “the food quality has been transformed for the better” (thank heavens!) with chef Paul Weaver (aided by input from The Sportsman’s Stephen Harris) “maintaining a more-than-respectful nod to the past” by including the odd Mitteleuropean note in what’s essentially a hearty, modern European menu. “Love it!”
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Noble Rot Soho?
2 Greek Street, London, W1D 4NB
Restaurant details
Noble Rot Soho Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Lovely service if a tiny bit bit erratic - they initially forgot my choux bun, but then didn’t charge me for it, so that cancels out. Speaking of the choux bun, it really is a mouth full of loveliness - salty and sweet from the Tokay jelly. The set menu is very good value at £24: the Roast Pork Neck, Borlotti Beans & Salsa Verde was fantastic. The pork was served slightly pink in a meaty broth, beans firm but yielding (good for crushing into the broth) and the broth and salsa verde had a slight sweetness (from mint?) which lifted the dish. I heartily recommend the suggested wine pairings by the glass. "
"We enjoyed a very fine 2 course lunch for £24 today. The pork collar was especially good in a delicious broth with borlotti beans and salsa verde which was piquant with a touch of sweetness. Well worth adding the wine pairing for a glass of Cannonau with the pork. "
"Food high quality. Beautifully cooked. Wine list - good range of price points. The first floor dining room was much more comfortable than the ground floor. "
"Decent menu and very good wine list. Unfussy but interesting flavours"
Prices
| Availability | 2 courses | 3 courses |  |
 |
 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lunch | £22.00 | £26.00 |  |
|
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Traditional European menu
| Starter | Main | Veggies | Pudding |
|---|---|---|---|
| £12.00 | £23.00 | £0.00 | £11.00 |
| Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £23.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £3.00 |
| Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 12.00% |
2 Greek Street, London, W1D 4NB
Opening hours
| Monday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑2:30 pm, 5 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
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