The Times
Jay Rayner struck gastronomic gold at a venture firmly in the traditional “functional genre” of Chinese restaurants, with a relatively short selection of dim sum that are served beyond the traditional lunchtime, via ‘afternoon tea’ when “pan-fried cuttlefish cake and soupy xiao long bao are a far better option than marzipan-heavy Battenberg”, and into the evening.
Beyond dim sum, the roasted meats were a highlight: “crispy pork belly is properly rendered so the skin has a shattering crunch”, and Cantonese roast duck was especially good. Only salt and pepper pork chop slightly missed the mark, being “a little too polite and well-mannered for its own good”.
Best of all was “an extraordinary dish of fat, black morel mushrooms, halved and then seemingly gene-spliced with minced pork, plump with garlic and ginger, so that the stuffing clings to their underside. They are then stir-fried with the crispest of new season asparagus.” Jay will be back: “Quality shouts its name when you stumble upon it.”
Jay Rayner - 2026-07-26
