Soho, Chinese Restaurant Guide

“The venison puffs are the best things ever”, the “prawn cheung fun with tofu is inspired” and desserts are “dainty and exciting looking” at these stylish and very successful spin-offs from the Hakkasan chain, whose formula is well summarised as “lovely dim sum in a buzzy location”. The two sites are quite different in character: the smaller, two-floor Soho original incorporates a ground-floor tea rooms and moody basement – the Broadgate branch boasts an outside cocktail terrace, but is much glossier, bigger and altogether more “corporate”. “There’s surprising attention to detail in each item of the menu” but the feeling that prices are “good but high for the portions” limits its food score; and “every now and again the service seems a tad chaotic”. Despite these quibbles, though, serious criticism was entirely absent this year.

This modern mashup of a gastropub with Chinese cuisine in Berwick Street, Soho, earns solid ratings for its “very good food in the bar and also in the more formal restaurant”. But, by comparison to the standards of creator Alan Yau’s previous mega-hits, including Wagamama and Hakkasan, some can find it “a bit disappointing overall”.

Chinese-Indian Hakka cuisine incorporating some interesting ingredients (crab, rabbit, venison) help inspire enthusiastic (if limited) feedback for this Soho two-year-old. In late 2021, a sibling will open on a former Polpo site in Covent Garden featuring a new cocktail offering and unusual wines from organic producers across the globe.

“A Taiwanese take on the fried chicken phenomenon, which comes with a punchy Sichuan kick” at Samuel Haim’s heart-of-Soho haunt. After years in Camden selling street food, this bricks -and-mortar branch opened in late 2019, and has morphed into a more full-service offering (with a little help from the team behind cult favourite Ta Ta Eatery). The menu centres around the chicken, alongside a fun selection of trendy Asian snacks and small eats: chicken gizzards with cream cheese and Doritos anyone? It worked for Jay Rayner anyway: “reasonably priced and well-executed”. Reporters similarly feel it’s “fun”, with “so many things to choose” and delivering “excellent” results.

“Service is as efficient and as unfriendly as ever, and the interior has looked the same for over 20 years now” (i.e. with precious little in terms of atmosphere) at this notorious Chinatown veteran – “certainly not a place for romance”. The legendary brusque service is “an acquired taste” and all part of the fun (“was staff rudeness toned down in the past year? Not something I’m happy with!”), but what keeps this place going are the “plates heaped with tasty food for a very good price”.

“Delicious dim-sum” is the menu highlight at this favourite, family-run Cantonese stalwart on Gerrard Street. “Their terrace was a real find during the pandemic” – one reason why it generated more reports than some in Chinatown this year.

2021 Review: “Spice heaven!” – this “old favourite” is “worth a detour north of Shaftesbury Avenue” to “experience genuinely interesting and mouth-popping Sichuan specials” – so “be brave when you order”. The food-writer, China expert and consultant “Fuchsia Dunlop’s touch makes it a regional Chinese diamond in the Chinatown rough”.

“Cheap ’n’ cheerful roast duck and other Cantonese roast meats” have won a big following for this Chinese quartet, with the “mothership” in Bayswater hailed as “still the best roast duck in the country”. But the “excellent food is let down by indifferent service” – a steady theme over the years; likewise, the interiors are unlikely to grace the pages of a design magazine any time soon.

“Cheap ’n’ cheerful roast duck and other Cantonese roast meats” have won a big following for this Chinese quartet, with the “mothership” in Bayswater hailed as “still the best roast duck in the country”. But the “excellent food is let down by indifferent service” – a steady theme over the years; likewise, the interiors are unlikely to grace the pages of a design magazine any time soon.

“A great find” – Z He and Alex Peffly’s Soho 60s-style ‘tea room and bar’ in Soho is “not your standard Chinese”. Instead, it serves turbocharged versions of Cantonese classics, such as char sui using Iberico pork, alongside ambitious cocktails and house-made rice wine. The couple’s Bun House, originally on this site, moved to Chinatown two years ago.

“Cheap ’n’ cheerful roast duck and other Cantonese roast meats” have won a big following for this Chinese quartet, with the “mothership” in Bayswater hailed as “still the best roast duck in the country”. But the “excellent food is let down by indifferent service” – a steady theme over the years; likewise, the interiors are unlikely to grace the pages of a design magazine any time soon.

2019 Review: If you crave authenticity and offal in equal portions, this new 2018 opening on Chinatown’s main drag (sibling to an existing operation in Holborn) looks like it may be the place for you. A traditional Sichuan hot-pot specialist, choose from over 80 ingredients – from assorted types of tripe, aorta and brain to wagyu beef and seafood.

“Still my favourite” – this “cavernous” Gerrard Street stalwart scores for its “excellent dim sum at a reasonable price”, including “some of the best char siu in Chinatown”.