Soho, Italian Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: Now over ten years old, this Venetian/Mediterranean chain has suffered a drip-feed of branch closures, with only two now trading: Soho and Chelsea. And in August 2020 it parted ways with its co-founder Russell Norman. Fans do still applaud the duo’s “very convivial and fun” formula, but the groups woes have stemmed from Venetian small plates that are often “no better than fine”, and at worst “uncared for” or “very mediocre”. Perhaps it will now finally turn a corner?

“A great place for a bowl of really well-executed pasta after a hard day’s shopping or pre-theatre”. “It’s only a shame that this Soho pasta-café is almost the only place you can now experience Stevie Parle’s lovely cooking”.

“Delicious” Spanish and Italian tapas and “a great choice of wines by the glass” win plaudits for this “romantic candlelit restaurant”, “tucked away conveniently behind Liberty just off Carnaby Street”. However, since its fabulous debut 15 years ago, it is undeniably “less superb than it used to be”, but “that’s partly due to standing still while everyone else continues to press forwards”.

“Simple Italian dishes”, with everything freshly made in the kitchen, are on the menu at this ten-year-old independent in Soho, whose standout culinary feature is the range of house-made vermouths in the bar. Praise is pretty muted, though – and “the room really lacks something despite good service”.

“A perfect pre-theatre choice that’s quick and classy” – these West End pasta-stops off Trafalgar Square and in Soho provide “excellent pasta, reasonable prices and a speedy turnaround”. “Buzzy rather than comfortable (many tables only have stools), really keen nearly all Italian staff provide the (fairly) limited menu” – “fab fresh pasta” with “modern Italian flavours” that’s “not complicated, but done with precision”, all “at an amazing price”.

“Wildly popular for its diverse offering of small plates of terrific and original Italian regional cuisine”: Jacob Kenedy’s “relentlessly busy” (“cramped and noisy”) West End venue is many reporters’ first choice for a favourite London Italian. Aided by a convenient situation, just a short stroll from Piccadilly Circus and “well-located for the theatres” – it’s become a regular feature in the list of Top-20 London restaurants in our annual diners’ poll. The selection of carefully researched and sourced Italian ‘tapas’ are “reliably original and sometimes surprising”; and matched with a “hugely varied” Italian wine list. The food rating slipped a tad this year, though, due to gripes of some dishes “lacking their customary perfection” or “leaning towards being overpriced”. “It’s a fairly small, intimate venue with counter seating at the front, where you can watch the chefs cook, as well as some more relaxed and comfortable tables at the back” (most regulars feeling it’s “best at the bar”). Top Tip – “superb negronis and stuffed olives and the risotto is always top notch”.

The “superb Italian food and great wine list” are everything you would expect from its ownership, the Florentine Frescobaldi dynasty, bankers to English monarchs as far back as Edward I, who have been producing wine on their Tuscan estates since 1308. Needless to say, the opulent venue is “very expensive”, but comes into its own in warm weather, with a “large outdoor terrace right in the heart of Mayfair that’s perfect for spring and summer”.

This swish “old-fashioned Italian” with “very smooth and welcoming staff” has “real style” befitting its environs alongside the bespoke tailors of Savile Row (for which it is named). Owned by D&D London, the kitchen nowadays is run by distinguished Calabrian-born chef Francesco Mazzei. Prices have never been bargain basement here, but most reporters reckon the expense is “worth it for the excellent cooking using top-class ingredients” and the “divine selection of Italian wines”.

“Irresistible for its history and authenticity” (as well as for “espresso and pastries”) – this 24-hour coffee bar defines Soho as the hub of London nightlife, as it has done ever since 1949, when the Polledri family – still the owners – opened it to serve what was then a thriving local Italian community. It’s “still skanky – but great” for those who appreciate post-war interiors.

“Beautiful fresh pasta, served from the heart by knowledgeable Italians” is the attractive offer at this small group, spun out of a famous veteran Soho deli (est. 1944) in the past five years under private equity outfit White Rabbit. The “food is good and good value, though limited and very focused on the pasta”. There are now branches in King’s Cross, the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and most recently Marylebone; the farthest-flung is in Tokyo, while Clapham Old Town has been long promised.

“As good as ever” – this modern and understated Soho wine bar favourite provides “good food, if in rather cramped and noisy surroundings”. A key feature is its handwritten ‘Black Book’ which lists the fine wines available each day.

2021 Review: “Neapolitan influences are evident in the choice of ingredients, and the wood-burning oven makes for good, chewy, charred crusts, unlike most high-street pizzas” – so say fans of this global chain, whose HQ is indeed in Naples. Not everyone is impressed, though, and ratings are dragged down by those who feel it’s merely an “everyday” choice: “OK for a bog-standard group, but not great”.

“A fun place to go with mates” – the Big Mamma Group’s “vibey” Fitzrovian has won renown as a ready-made party scene. The outsized portions of simple Italian fodder from a monthly changing menu are arguably “utterly bonkers” and deliver an affordable occasion, although one or two critics feel it’s “losing some of its originality” and providing too many “unmemorable” dishes nowadays.

This “casual pasta restaurant” and ‘pastificio’ in Soho conjures up the tastes of Emilia-Romagna “in a family environment – like your favourite grandma cooking you the Sunday dishes of a Bolognese family!”.