Soho, Japanese Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: “Our daughters love this restaurant – especially the cubed steak and iceberg lettuce!”. This manifestly cool Soho three-year-old offers sushi and sashimi as well as a wide range of fish and meat from the robata grill.

“LOVE this chain and would happily eat there any day!” – These “always buzzy” Nordic operations (originating in Copenhagen 30 years ago) provide a “tasty mix of sushi and grilled yakitori kebabs” in Scandi-minimalist dining spaces. One or two reporters hesitate at the prices for these luscious morsels – “not sure you can justify the cost of leaving full up” – but the overall satisfaction-level is high. They added a branch in Richmond’s former House of Fraser in May 2024 followed by another on Islington Green in September.

“Deeply flavoured and satisfying” ramen noodles in an “addictive” 20-hour pork bone broth combine with a “noisy hustle and bustle” at this ‘rock ’n’ roll ramen’ chain established in 2012, now with seven venues across central London. Perhaps the “quick and easy” (and noisy) vibe does not translate as satisfyingly from its original Soho site to the suburbs: a branch in leafy Richmond closed down last year, as did a Putney branch before it.

“You can’t go wrong if you order tonkotsu” at this ramen group from Tak Tokumine of the Japan Centre – the noodles and 12-hour pork bone broth are “authentic” and some of the “best in town”. The venues can be “cramped”, and “the constant banging of a drum to indicate dishes being ready can grate”.

“A favourite for midweek sushi” – this 12-year-old pan-Asian group from Israeli-born Ohad Kastro started in Primrose Hill and has expanded to six outlets in a series of well-heeled locations, with Barnes and Chelsea particularly commented-on. Perhaps not a choice for foodie purists, they provide a convivial setting for “an interesting and varied menu of Asian-inspired” dishes prepared to an admirably consistent standard. (One gripe – the “astonishing number of takeaway food packages collected by delivery drivers” was an irritant in a couple of reports this year).

“A bit of a dive to be honest, but the food is still so good!” – no-one claims Mr Taro’s group is particularly stylish, but for “very generous portions of the classic Japanese dishes (including decent sushi, teriyaki and katsu curry)” these functional canteens hit the spot, and at a very good price. The latest (summer 2024) additions to its roster of eight venues are Catford in southeast London and Brentwood in Essex.

Yuya Kikuchi’s no-frills, very personal, small Soho six-year-old inspired little feedback this year, although we have received rave reviews in the past, particularly about the sushi. You can eat quite cheaply here, but aficionados of Japanese cuisine regularly go nuts for his £120, 18-course omakase. The FT’s Tim Hayward was one such in February 2023, declaring it “the best Japanese food in London” where “the chef’s attention to his ingredients is quite staggering… his craft skills second-to-none”. We have never had any complaints, but read Tripadvisor reviews if you are at all sensitive to poor service…

2021 Review: “Always there to satisfy a Japanese food craving”: this conveyor-belt sushi-stalwart in Soho rates well for “fast, good-quality plates” – less so for the “uncomfortable stools and loud music”. But nobody is complaining with “fresh hand-made tempura and salmon rolls for £4 – a steal!”. It lost its spin-offs last year, though, in Covent Garden and South Kensington.

This 15-strong London noodle chain (now with branches in Brighton, Birmingham and Bristol) is “a good stand-by” – perhaps it’s “not as good as some of its competitors”, but it is widely seen as “good value”: in particular “the lunch-time meal deal” is a winner.

2021 Review: Izakaya-style Soho yearling, which opened in Spring 2019, making a feature of the robata skewers for which it is named, and whose other attractions include bao buns, sushi and cocktails. It opened too late to inspire much in the way of survey feedback, but the general social media buzz about the place is upbeat.

2023 Review: With its outdoor rooftop terraces over central London near Regent Street, this Hong Kong-owned Japanese joint (a sibling of more famous Aqua Shard) makes a “romantic” location – “even a touch exotic” – to dine on “lovely food” which “looks as good as it tastes”. “The rent must be pretty steep, presumably explaining why prices are very high too”.

These noodle bars are “great if you need a quick and satisfying lunch” – either in the original Soho branch, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, or its offshoots in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and Hackney. They specialise in udon noodles, which are fatter than ramen and served in a more refined and traditional Japanese dashi stock.

“You can’t go wrong if you order tonkotsu” at this ramen group from Tak Tokumine of the Japan Centre – the noodles and 12-hour pork bone broth are “authentic” and some of the “best in town”. The venues can be “cramped”, and “the constant banging of a drum to indicate dishes being ready can grate”.

When Matsuhiro Araki opened this nine-seat Mayfair venue in 2014, it broke the mould. He set the bar for the new omakase-style revolution that would sweep London; introduced the capital to a £300+ per head price point, which was almost double what anyone else was charging at the time; and became the world’s first chef to have won three Michelin stars for a Japanese restaurant in both London and Tokyo. In 2019, he returned to the Far East, leaving his protégé Marty Lau and daughter Manae Araki in charge. The tyre man wasn’t happy and removed all three stars in one fell swoop, not even leaving one to remain! Ever since – not helped by a multiplying number of new rivals offering a similar experience – media interest in the place has dwindled, yet each year it has inspired nothing but upbeat feedback in our annual diners’ poll. This year is no exception, with (albeit limited) feedback praising “an intimate dining experience with exquisite and fine sushi” – and we’ve maintained a high rating on that basis.

2023 Review: This “wonderful Japanese noodle shop just off of Regent Street” is modelled on the ‘yokocho’ alleyways of old Tokyo, its retro 1970s theme lending itself well to pedestrianised Heddon Street. There’s “great-tasting ramen with regular specials” and it “can be busy”. Launched two years ago by the Japan Centre team, it also has branches in Panton Street, Soho, and Westfield Shepherd’s Bush.

“A really special experience for serious foodies” – Layo & Zoë Paskin’s (also of Barbary and Palomar fame) intimate 12-seater is part of a period Chinatown pub, where they have created different venues on each level. Here in the former beer cellar, “the only option is the kitchen counter, so you are right in on the action” and the creation of “superbly executed cuisine” from a small team, which is now headed by Seamus Sam, former head chef at Tom Aiken’s Muse, whose August 2024 arrival post-dated our diners’ poll. Feedback volume and ratings have slipped marginally since Luke Selby left for Le Manoir at the end of 2022. The most critical report? “A perfectly competent meal, served in an appropriately reverential atmosphere, albeit a cramped and uncomfortable setting (but then places of worship often are) by suitably devout believers and not cheap”. But perhaps there will now be an uptick under the new chef? Top Tip – a variety of drink pairings range from ‘Firm Favourites’ to ‘No & Low’ (a mixture of alcohol-free and low ABV wines).

“A wide range of typical Japanese dishes that have not been anglicised, including sushi that’s always fresh and well-prepared (with true tastes, unlike at the ubiquitous chains)”, helps inspire a big fan club for this “homely” chain. They are “not the grandest of places” – with service that’s “quick and efficient” rather than particularly charming – but it “always feels like you are eating in Japan” here; and “they get the job done with decent value for money”. They must be doing something right as they are “always packed” and there are “often queues out the door”. Top Tip – “the bento boxes are particularly good and with generous portions”.