Soho, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Restaurants like this are such a rarity nowadays” – and this “raffish and romantic”, “cosy, dimly-lit and lively” ancient townhouse retains its quirky “very special” and “sensual” appeal (“still love it after all these years: 35 and counting!”). “Even without the characterful Mr E [who died in 2022] the feeling of old Soho is maintained (he would be proud)” and its very tightly packed interior is a major magnet for lovers, old mates and ‘meeja’ types. The simple and “honest” “seasonal” British cooking is “always changing, interesting and doesn’t break the bank”, and – in particular – the “astonishing wine and sherry selection” is “a joy” (being particularly strong in “very fairly priced, older red vintages”). “Knowledgeable and friendly staff further add to the experience” of “a delightful place with great charm” and “real hospitality”. Top Tips – “Stay on the ground floor for the full Dickensian experience” – “the level of romance depends very much on where your candle-lit table is located in this quirky place”. And plush it ain’t (“I defy anyone to feel romantic or raffish after sitting on a pew seat through dinner…”; “we do know people who are simply too big for it to be comfortable”).

“One word… phenomenal!” – the unanimous verdict again this year on the small London outpost of acclaimed Lakeland chef, Simon Rogan’s empire. When it first opened, they only told you the address after you booked: nowadays, a discreet plaque and black-painted frontage advertises the presence of this 12-seat chef’s table (expanded from 8 covers in 2023) and development kitchen in a cute pedestrianised Soho alleyway between Wardour Street and Dean Street. Chef Charlie Tayler provides a 15-course tasting menu for £195 per person that’s some of the best-rated European cuisine in the capital. Supplied in part by Rogan’s organic farm in Cartmel (‘Our Farm’) and overseen by the group’s executive chef Oli Marlow, the focus is on the theatrical ingredient-led seasonal British cuisine for which L’Enclume has won such renown.

“Good honest food which will satisfy all tastes” helps win fans for this “smart and buzzy”, retro-feel brasserie: part of a boutique hotel in the Soho House stable. Its forte, though, is in serving “a top freshly cooked breakfast”, or as a brunch rendezvous – you wouldn’t go expecting a foodie extravaganza.

“A Soho Classic”. “Jeremy Lee’s cooking is worth crossing town for” – “traditional modern British/Scottish cuisine with seasonal flare” – and he has, over the last dozen years, helped the Hart Bros reestablish this “up-market, white-tablecloth English landmark” as a magnet for a “totally reliable and stylish” occasion, particularly a “romantic” one. It helps that the “lovely staff” help create a “happy” and unforced atmosphere and that the successful private members’ club on the upper floors of the building add to the address’s allure as a destination for those in-the-know. The worst anyone says? “It all seemed a bit safe”. Top Menu Tips – “the smoked eel sandwich starter is a taste experience no serious foodie should miss”; and “the daily pie never disappoints”.

“Tiny”, “cheek-by-jowl” Soho natural wine bar which excels for “delicious small plates of full-flavoured and balanced cooking”, plus “super-knowledgeable staff who have actually met the wine producers of the unusual wines they sell”. It’s still going strong after 15 years: foodwise, a typical meal might run: “bread; pickles; aubergine fritters; squash with cheese and seeds; lamb chop with beans; cheese and frangipane”; vinously: “started with sparkling red, moved on to a white from Puglia (who knew) and finished with a lovely rosé”.

An amazing oasis of calm for somewhere slap bang in the centre of the West End – this “civilised” hotel dining room in a cute courtyard near Piccadilly Circus makes a charming setting for afternoon tea in particular. At other times the "unobtrusive" food “does what you need for a business meeting” and will do nothing to detract from a more social occasion.

Part of the Gladwin Bros’ well-known ‘Local & Wild’ group, this Soho venue is focused on “sound cooking using ingredients with a known provenance” – many of them from the family estate in Sussex (hence the name). That said, the lukewarm performance here fails to match that of its better-established West London stablemates, the Shed in Notting Hill and Rabbit in Chelsea. But maybe a summer 2025 refit is about to change all that: it’s seen the introduction of a chef’s table, a central wood-fired kitchen grill, and a new bar.

This dramatic dining room (a former banking hall with an astonishing 5-metre corniced ceiling) of an Ian Shrager-designed hotel north of Oxford Street provides a superb setting for Jason Atherton’s well-established Fitzrovia destination. It has fans for all occasions thanks to its accomplished brasserie cooking, but it’s for wowing clients that it’s most often nominated in our annual diners’ poll and “there are booths that are ideal for business discussions”.

“A top spot for a long, slow meal in Soho” – this “small but perfectly formed” first-floor dining room looks down onto the street through the ‘Tricolore’ flags and Union Jacks that signpost this “old favourite” pub. “You fight your way through the pub entrance, past the frenetic, cosy downstairs bar, but once you’re up the stairs to this petit space, your shoulders relax” as it has a timeless, “charming” quality. Neil Borthwick (aka Mr Angela Hartnett) is the latest in a line of top chefs who have defied the modest expectations of this “compact” space, delivering “the kind of simple, intelligent, well-thought-out food you always want to eat with gusto, rather than take pictures of”. “The staff are friendly and helpful without being intrusive and the atmosphere is relaxed and comforting (it’s like being wrapped in a big fluffy blanket and fed your favourite ‘get well’ soup!”). Top Menu Tips – “the aligot, the steak frites, the crispy pig’s head, all utterly delicious, consistent and with huge bursts of full-on flavour”; and “the madelaines with orange curd are awesome!”

“A hidden gem that’s so worth a visit, especially if you want to stay late” – this ‘boutique basement wine bar & kitchen’ in the heart of Soho was founded by not one but two master sommeliers, Gearoid Devaney & Xavier Rousset (originally as an industry insider club called ‘Trade’). The food is simple (pizzas and sharing boards) but the cocktails are excellent and there’s an exceptional selection of by-the-glass vintage wines.

“Kudos to the chef” – Seamus Sam, who arrived in mid 2024 and is maintaining the culinary renown of this funky 12-seater in the cellar of Layo & Zoë Pasking’s period pub on the fringe of Chinatown, where he delivers a five-course menu for £135 per person. By all accounts it’s “just a wonderful experience” with “extremely interesting cooking” and “some intriguing wine pairings”, all delivered by “excellent staff”. “Not one for claustrophobics” perhaps, but most reporters find its style “lovely and intimate”.

Jason Atherton’s small Mayfair venue does still have a fan base, who promote its “great atmosphere” and some “fantastic” posh bistro food; and it remains a central London link to his original ‘Social’ empire (Pollen Street Social, RIP, used to be opposite). The view gained currency this year, though, that while it’s “not a bad small restaurant, it’s nothing outstanding” these days – perhaps inevitably now that his prime focus has shifted to newer London projects including Sael and Row on 5.

“It’s always a pleasure to return” to this “dignified but unstuffy favourite” with the “lovely atmosphere of old Soho” – nowadays part of Dan Keeling & Mark Andrew’s all-conquering little clan, but for many decades previously adored as ‘The Gay Hussar’ (long RIP: famously a parlour of political and literary intrigues). “An excellent choice for lovers of the grape”, the “ridiculously comprehensive” wine list “will blow your mind!” But “the food is pretty good too” (“especially if you order the chicken with morels and vin jaune!”): “straightforward, largely Gallic dishes” which are served in the “tight, buzzy and intimate space” which takes in two floors of the building (and there is also “a nice private room for a party upstairs”). “The smaller space means the service is better and friendlier than its siblings”: the team is “helpful” and "super-knowledgeable" – “the only problem is deciding what to drink!”. It’s also “a pity that it’s so hard to book a table at a sensible time…”. Top Top – “the set menu lunch is unbeatable value”.

As a “cosy choice for a romantic breakfast”, this big, famous Soho landmark wins the odd tip. What’s more striking, though, is how somewhere with a gorgeous Champagne bar and unbeatable heritage (from 1867) can – under Soho House, who mostly run it as a hotel – have sunk into such stupefying obscurity and mediocrity.

“This small, unassuming restaurant is a favourite haunt” in Soho, featuring “imaginative, unfussy and tasty food”, with “attentive service in a buzzy environment”. Founders Cameron Emirali & Luke Wilson are “lovely people” who “get everything right”, so “the ambience is fun, with everyone enjoying themselves”. Top Tip – “it’s worth sharing plates to get twice as much pleasure for the same price”.

“Expect the unexpected!” at Rishim Sachdeva’s ‘mostly vegan’ (dairy making an occasional appearance) outfit in Mayfair, where “every dish is a jewel” – you’ll find “stunning food that really celebrates vegetables, not the meat substitutes which can put you off vegan restaurants”. “Lovely staff” are another tick in its favour; but the “very noisy room makes it hard to have a conversation”. Top Menu Tip – “I’m not a fan of aubergine, but their charred dish is excellent”.

“Enjoyable if not ‘set-the-world-alight’ food, decent service and a nice environment” sums up feedback on this two-year-old bistro-style venue, open to the public on the ground floor of stylish Soho members’ club 1 Warwick. It wins most praise for a “fantastic brunch”, but one or two reporters expected more from ex-Duck & Waffle chef Tom Cenci – “it’s nice enough, but is in a competitive area and could be even better (and maybe it will get better)”.

“Not surprised it’s voted London’s No. 1 gastropub” – Charlie Carroll & Oisin Rogers’s superb yearling, about 100m north of Piccadilly Circus, has instantly become everyone’s favourite boozer: “it is a must-visit which is why it’s so hard to get a table!” – and why it’s in the Top 5 most-mentioned destinations of all types in our annual diners’ poll. “They pull a very decent pint of Guinness or Guinness 0.0” in the ground-floor bar; then, “you push through the scrum to get to the bustling restaurant upstairs”, which is “exactly how you imagine a cosy, upscale pub to feel”; and once there, it’s all organised around an open-fire grill (“if you are close to the range it can get very hot and uncomfortable indeed” – “don’t sit too near” if you can avoid it). “They have chosen their food niche and executed it to perfection”. “Nothing is particularly fancy” – it’s “nostagic” British “comfort food, beautifully executed”, with “plenty of meat on offer plus hearty old favourites like steak ’n’ kidney pudding” (“a savoury, suet joy”). Service is “impeccable” and “everything is presented with energy and enthusiasm” (“not sure how they keep up such a high standard”). Even many fans note that “it’s a little pricey” however. And, others feel “it’s perfectly OK, but don’t buy the hype” (“Good? Certainly. Exceptional? No”). The worst problem for most folks though? “Good luck getting a booking for peak hours…”. Top Tips – “the set meu is a steal – best prawn cocktail in years and the steak ’n’ chips and the sticky toffee pudding are all yummo!”; “love the Iberico ribs”; “beautiful crab salad”; “mouthwatering lamb hotpot”.

This wine bar/restaurant group has a steady fanbase on the strength of its vinous offerings, although its “bistro fare” is perhaps not much better than “acceptable”. The best of its four venues is probably the “cosy” Marylebone flagship with live jazz and late opening at ’28-50 By Night’, and there’s a “very convenient” branch a minute’s walk from Oxford Circus.

Perched overlooking Regent Street, amidst the impressive chambers of the Café Royal, Alex Dilling’s gracious HQ is, according to the Michelin man, one of the UK’s foremost temples of gastronomy. But the feedback it generates in our survey is much more muted than its two-star status might imply; as is the buzz it generates amongst London’s fooderati. Still, its luxurious cuisine is uniformly well-rated in our survey, with the experience centred on a 10-course tasting menu for £215 per person: “one of the most expensive dining experiences we have ever had. Saying that we felt it was reasonable value for money… although we wouldn’t want to do it too often!”