Greater London, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Deserving its many plaudits” – this “model gastropub” near the Old Vic remains one of London’s most popular food pubs and still “delivers on all fronts”. “Service is engaging and lively” and provides “expert cuisine” that mixes Mediterranean dishes with those of more traditional British inspiration, alongside “very drinkable” wine. The interior is “noisy and busy but that’s part of the buzzy ambience” and while “it’s a biggish room, it’s still best to book”.

“The location and setting are the stars” at this spectacular venue – the flagship restaurant of the Brutalist Southbank arts centre, with plate-glass windows offering “wonderful views” over the Thames. Part of D&D London, the restaurant has long struggled to do its surroundings justice, with an often-“mediocre” offering that leaves even supporters regretting the “well done, if rather unimaginative menu”.

“This beautiful space by the river” – the stylish dining room of a South Bank hotel, designed by Tom Dixon – has “a wonderful view if you get a table by the window” and “plenty of space between the tables, so conversation is easy”. Standards in other respects, though, have been up-and-down over many years.

“OK, but I have always thought it too expensive” is sadly one of the more enthusiastic reports we received this year on this South Bank landmark, whose “great views” over the Thames and St Paul’s are less of a rarity than when it first launched in 1996 with the opening of so many rooftops nowadays. Over three-quarters of feedback here are nominations for either ‘most overpriced’ or ‘most disappointing’ meal of the year in our annual diners’ poll. The modern British menu is too often judged “expensive and tasteless”, which it shouldn’t be when a bowl of chips costs £9. “It’s so disappointing because its great views and location should make it a fantastic restaurant”. “A tourist trap if ever I’ve seen one”.

“A most enjoyable meal in an attractive setting” is reported by just over half of reporters visiting the cheaper section of this rooftop landmark on the South Bank. The remainder, though, “expect much, much better at these prices”: “it has a great view but very disappointing food and service – trading off its location!”

A particularly solid choice for brunch – this “buzzy” Kiwi-run chain (with seven branches) fits the bill well, with “interesting small plates” of pan-global fusion food and an emphasis on notably good coffee (which they roast in-house). On the downside, the food is often “passable and no more” and their “lively” interiors (Granary Square in particular) can become “hopelessly crowded”, giving rise to incidents of “slapdash service”. Still, they’re “fun” and “reasonably priced”. (See also Vardo).

This quietly ambitious kitchen at Lambeth’s Garden Museum is a real magnet for diners in-the-know (“I’d happily eat here once a week if I lived locally – it’s always different!”). Former Noble Rot head chef Myles Donaldson delivers a daily changing lunch menu that’s not vegetarian or even vegan, but strong on both camps and on delivering “good, healthy food”. The interior is simple, but enhanced by floor-to-ceiling windows looking onto the street and into the garden. (There’s also coffee, cakes, etc all day).

“Handy for the local South Bank theatres”, this “small, unassuming place” close to Tate Modern from Lucy Pedder and Natasha Cooke has won a strong following over seven years thanks to “an interesting and well-executed menu” of small and larger plates, all “in a friendly atmosphere and at a reasonable price”. Top Menu Tip – “The enormous and delicious Cheddar fritters are a must!… Roasted Pigeon in a stout sauce along with Confit rabbit, ribollita & cavolo nero is a highlight… definitely save space for dessert”.

“A wonderful location overlooking St Paul’s and the river” – complete with “fantastic view of the Thames” – creates a “gorgeous”, if unavoidably touristy, setting for this South Bank pub, which is incorporated into Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. Locals support it too though: in particular it’s “a lovely spot for afternoon tea” and “even if the teas are Shakespeare-themed, they aren’t over-tacky”. The contemporary British food is also well-rated at other times.

Quirkiness in spades is the particular appeal of this Dickensian watering hole – London’s oldest wine bar, whose best tables are in a superbly ancient candle-lit cellar which originally housed wine shipped to its front door by barges on the Thames. But in summer its outside comes into its own, boasting as it does a huge terrace adjoining leafy Victoria Embankment Gardens. “It has a very good wine list” – while the cold food is somewhat incidental: “a simple menu of quality ingredients” majoring in cold cuts and cheeses. Fun fact: it’s owned by entrepreneur Simon Gordon (the place was already called ‘Gordon’s’ when he bought it), who owns the increasingly ubiquitous Facewatch anti-shoplifting software, which was originally developed to stop thefts at the bar.

“Brasserie food has been jazzed up to fit into the style of the Corinthia” by TV-star Tom Kerridge, and it‘s an approach that has proved enduring at this cavernous and moodily decorated bar/restaurant on Northumberland Avenue, which he runs in partnership with the adjoining, deluxe five-star hotel. Even those who say the cooking is “well done”, however, say it’s “not a choice for the budget-conscious” and an increasing number of reporters experience “rushed service” and feel it’s a case of “a lot of hype for ordinary food at escalated prices”.