Greater London, French Restaurant Guide

This wood-panelled French brasserie with an “excellent fixed-price menu” of Gallic classics is particularly “useful in the location” – close to the Imperial War Museum in Kennington – and provides its own entertainment in the form of its upstairs jazz club.

A “Covent Garden staple” for 33 years, this “bustling French bistro with packed tables but speedy service” serves “good-value, reliably cooked traditional Gallic fare” that belies its somewhat touristy looks. Top Tip – “a wide-ranging menu and the set menus and special deals add to its appeal; and it’s a good choice for families with children”.

A glass-ceilinged former auction house in Chancery Lane is home to this homage to Provençal cuisine from Pascal Aussignac’s Club Gascon group – making it an “excellent place for a business lunch in an otherwise under-served area”. Plus points include an interesting list of southern French and Corsican wines, and the downstairs cocktail bar Baranis. Top Tip – “ask for a booth to celebrate a special occasion”.

“On more than one occasion we have observed someone ‘popping the question’ here!” – the “magical” setting “never fails to impress” at this Covent Garden oasis, yet again voted London’s No.1 venue for romance in our annual diners’ poll. “Sitting in the conservatory is a joy, especially in good weather when the retractable roof is open” and its “most beautiful interior courtyard is tailormade for a date”. “The largely Provençal and Tuscan cuisine is good but the star of this show is the magnificent wine list, with choices from around the world and prices to suit all budgets. The only recommendation is to read the wine list at home in advance, otherwise you’ll spend the first hour ignoring your date!”.

2021 Review: “Interesting and very edible food in ‘tapas mode’”, at “very reasonable prices”, is on offer at this contemporary Franco-Hispanic bistro in Borough Market. “Charming service” from “efficient and friendly staff” adds to its attractions – along with “plenty of outdoor tables” for summer scoffing.

“A secret, below-ground escape from the mayhem of Leicester Square” for more than half a century – this “well-hidden”, “old-school” wine bar has “only got better” over the years, first under founder Don Hewitson and latterly under Will Clayton. Top Menu Tip – “share the ham and cheese pie (it is absolutely enormous)”, and has sold around a million portions since 1971.

“Perfect French cuisine with a Korean twist” has built an impressive reputation for Woongchul Park and Bomee Ki’s ambitious and highly accomplished three-year-old – a patch of serenity in the gritty streets surrounding Guy’s Hospital. The main event is an 8-9 course tasting menu, which is exciting in the freshness of its ideas and with “faultless” realisation. Top Tip – Bomee trained as a pastry chef so pace yourself for dessert.

2023 Review: Rihanna celebrated her birthday in February 2022 at this lavish Creole haunt next to The Ivy, in Covent Garden, where the former site of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon nowadays combines a restaurant (ground floor), bar (first floor) and roof garden. Whether the tastes of New Orleans are faithfully replicated is a matter of some dispute – there is the odd take-down of “overpriced and under-seasoned dross”, but most reports actually say its gumbo, Louisiana crab cakes and other eclectic dishes are “very good”.

This “bustling bistrot tucked down a side street near Victoria” feels “just like being in a small, rushed French café”. Lyon-born founder Aurelia Noel-Delclos named the business after the grandmother who inspired her love of food. The 10-year-old original branch, in the tourist ‘ground zero’ of old Covent Garden market, is less reported-on, but said to be “decent” for “post-matinée early dinner”.

“The charming warren of rooms helps make for a happy experience” at this “nostalgic”, and “immensely charming” Gallic super-bistro, near Covent Garden, which opened just after WWII and which has rambled over the years into neighbouring buildings. “For many decades the menu has hardly changed and continues to reflect Parisian bistros with confit de canard, steak grillé and a fine chariot de fromages... warming in winter and equally welcoming the rest of the year”. New owners, Fabio Lauro and Family took over in 2022 from Alain Lhermitte (who owned it since 1972) “leaving some people worried this place has gone off”. But “the food was not what it was” before Alain retired, and ratings improved here somewhat this year – hopefully the start of a positive new chapter for this old veteran.

“Signs of returning normality with a full Coq!”. This “purring” D&D London operation sits on the top floor of No 1 Poultry – with leafy roof terraces in sight of the Bank of England – and is a well-established linchpin of the Square Mile lunching scene. For foodies, it can seem a disappointing experience, but for those packing corporate plastic it’s valued as a “great location in the heart of the City for a pricey-but-decent business lunch serving upmarket staples with a French twist”. Top Tip – “good for breakfast in the summer on the outside terrace”.